Which is a real head scratcher considering mother nature just gave them a reminder that car safety is something they need to pay attention to. I don’t want to know what those other cars would have looked like inside after being hit the same way their RAV4 was.

Drives around 2 small children and all 3 recommendations have miserable safety ratings. Get a RAV4 Hybrid. This might be over the budget initially, but it’ll make up for that and then some down the road on fuel and maintenance. It also has a higher tow rating than the RAV4 you had (1750lbs vs 1500lbs).

I think the 7.2 is for serviceability and service life. Simple engine making the required numbers using a simple proven layout. Those are going into fleets, RVs, and work trucks that just need to work.

Having those port injectors actually fixed reliability issues inherent with direct injection.

That doesn’t really mean anything considering how little there is out there, and how basically none of them are doing any regular amount of driving.

Buy what you need. It’s (all else equal) cheaper to buy a TV that is sized appropriately for your viewing distance than to buy the biggest one on the market. If your commute/daily trips is only so many miles, buy a BEV that covers those miles with some extra for special circumstances. If you want to frequently road…

Which is why you wouldn’t buy an electric car. Everyone talks like there is a gun pointed at their head when it comes to BEVs. No one is saying everyone under the sun needs to drive a BEV, it’s the people that have massive, oversized vehicles for commuting simply for the couple times a year they might need it. It’s…

Range anxiety only exists for those with no home charging infrastructure. If you can charge at home and have a commute that falls within the scope of average, literally ANY modern BEV is enough for a commute to and from work at speeds in line with regular traffic in any weather conditions. Additionally, barring extreme…

And damnit I better have a free charging stall WHEREVER I CHOSE TO DRIVE! I can’t be BOTHERED to charge at home everyday!

And when you follow your pedantic point down to the lowest point on the car, it stops at the tire. Everything eventually presses down on the tires, and they get their strength from the air inside them, not the sidewalls.

Fun fact time! 95% of your vehicle’s weight is held up by the air in the tire, the remaining 5% is the tire. Check your pressures people!

A99 honda rides on tires so fucking tall the rim would never see the curb in the first place, and the tire would absorb and deflect a large portion of the impact. Low profile tires = rims hitting curb and transferring much more impact energy to the suspension components.

Who knows? They literally benched marked those cars during testing so I’m willing to bet things will play out in a fairly competitive manner.

Just announced today.

There is far too many factors to a cars performance than just HP for 0-60. Weight, drag, tires and wheels, suspension design, transmission/driveline efficiency, waaaay too many things to say “HP numbers are sandbagged”. If the competition want to miss-quote their power figures that’s up to them. Acura can claim a…

I was just re-reading the marking wank that came out when the RDX did and they’re only claiming higher base horsepower, not faster 0-60 times. 

The RDX power claim is when comparing base models. The high HP versions of the Q series and X3 will beat it, but their base engines are worse.

Instead of dying all over the place over some numbers taken out of context, you should focus on the actual performance. We don’t know how those figures translate into performance, so I’m not going to say that the 6hp gain over an S4 or the 30hp drop from an M340 means anything until it’s actually tested.

Except the oddy wears it better.

Add 3-4 psi over the door placard tire inflation value, should see a decent bump in MPG without ruining the ride. It’ll also help your tires wear more evenly, factory value is too soft for even tire wear in real world conidtions.