Exactly. Enough car to cause guilt, not enough to result in financial impact...
PS, I agree it is an excellent candidate for the use you describe. Especially as they have a 1/3 chance of damaging it anyway.
If it drives like new, buy it. Change the CVT fluid and take your chances. It may need a head gasket. Who knows. I think I would say if you could find a comparable car for $5500 with 130,000 miles, the premium is worth it.
I can probably be accused to be the master of deferred maintenance but I have not seen that to be an issue in any of the 5 vehicles I have had the longest. Each ran to 15 years. Two of them left me with 200k or so, the others had 100k miles.
Are you racing it? If not you probably would never need to bleed it so in that case you a totally Un-F’d.. If the pedal is spongy and it needs bleeding, I would crack the line into it and pushing the piston back with a scredriver to bleed it. I’ve done that and it works fine. Again Un-F’d.
understood. Interesting read though.....
I recall watching the the Audi’s at Road America a couple of years later. The amazing thing was that they would actually J off turn one with their all wheel drive. They would drive off the track and back on on the outside. Darndest thing to watch.
These are for racing, Put them on a street car and they might last 200,000 miles. I am though very pleased with the new stop techs I put on my Uplander. If you need to haul it down like I do when towing, they have a great feel.
Unfortunately the class only allows stock rotors. By the way, the pads are Cobalt brand which I find to be exceptional. They are not cheap but no fade and exceptional grip.
According to BBC, It’s not clear who won?....
Yes and I played with those when I had potato chip brakes like on my CRX but why pay the toll when my rotors are costing $12 a race?
I am looking at stop tech rotors though via Rock Auto, they are cheaper that Autozone’s
Nice idea about the DBA’s but I have to run stock rotors.
PS, when the get to visible cracks that i can feel with a fingernail, I toss them for new.
93 degrees means never having to empty your spit valve......
How about a quart of fluid, a hose on the bleeder, and open it and let it drain by gravity until it flows clear? Or if you are in a hurry have somebody pump them?
That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.
I love how they always seem to get into the sidewall where the shops refuse to repair.......
Your car is mind blowingly advanced for 1986. And the fit and interior accessories made cars twice as expensive look cheap. I am sure that Hondas and Toyotas like these made corporate boardrooms in Detroit and Germany going Uh-Oh.
Sure, and my famous last words will be “what does that lever do?”