ddadsm
DD a DSM
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As someone that just put a new head on a 2011 2.0L TSFI motor w/ 120k miles because of a timing tensioner failure, this hits close.

I’m going to take this term and make it my own. I’ve got a 91 Eagle Talon 2.0L non-turbo. It meets all the requirements for a funreliable car.

If I’m reading right, it only has about 200 hp and 200 ft-lb tq from Motor 2 of that trans. Motor 1 is just along for the ride (starter/generator). This seems like such a complicated way to do this conversion. Anyone with the knowledge of how to do this is going to want to do it their own way. He’s asking the value of

Late to the party, so this will be buried, but when Ford announced the 6-sp, they said that was as many speeds as they thought they’d ever need. Any more speeds and the open clutches would generate too much drag and decrease efficiency more than the increased FE gains from running the engine at a better load point.

They presumably have some air in them. Not like they’d suddenly explode in space. It’s all about the reference frame. If they were launched with a typical 2.5 atm gauge pressure (≈ 2.5 bar ≈ 36 psig), that would be 3.5 atm absolute pressure. That’s still not that high (51psig), and the tire should do just fine with

This list could be a lot, LOT longer. Startups that “matter” in what sense? Pushing the envelope in tech/design? Developing AI? Putting people on <4 wheels? The car companies are only the tip of the iceberg. There’s a whole automotive industry of startups supporting not just these companies, but the established OEMs

The big key here is stock. Because these cars are so simple to work on, people just can’t pass up the chance to go mucking up the reliability for the sake of performance.

$10k will get you a pretty clean, stock DSM.

Saved every photo. Putting those on shuffle should provide a sufficient background source to get me through January.

This is correct. I even double checked because I had a Jet Central turboprop come across my desk a few months ago, and it was only a 9kW unit and about this size. There are a few companies that have announced they’re developing these, and a few companies that have the know-how, but haven’t released any info. This

And technically correct is the best kind of correct.

Late to the game, but how about an 04-07 Volvo S60R? Plenty of power. Super comfy for daily driving. Room to do upgrades. Won’t win an autoX with it, but you’ll have fun trying. While not plentiful, there are good clean examples with less than 100k for less than $15k. When I couldn’t find a clean Saab 9-2x Aero in my

Had mud daubers in the carburetors on my CB550. There are 2 feed lines to the carbs, and one had nested in a line. Had some in the vent lines, too. Took a bit to figure out all the fuel flow issues.

The passenger side belt in my car jiggles at stop lights because something’s gone haywire, and the slightly lower voltage when stopped is enough to send it cycling back an forth 2 inches.

But crappy 90's headlines mean that half the work is already done when you want to put something more interesting in the car.

Can you pull that plastic top engine cover off and show us the bones underneath?

You’re in that awkward timeframe where it’s not old enough for a lot of reproduction parts to be available, but all the new stuff is starting to disappear from dealer stocks. I’ve been really surprised at the availability of parts for my ‘75.

In the same sense, a small sandblasting cabinet with baking soda in it worked great for the restoration work I did to my ‘75 CB550F. It made quick work of all the grime in an on the carbs while leaving the patina intact. If you’re doing just a few small parts, the $15 sandblasting gun from Harbor Freight works wonders

I had to scroll way too far to see this. A 1000 lb boat is nothing. I pulled that weight all the time behind my Talon. Get a decent trailer for behind the wife’s vehicle or put a hitch on whatever you get. You’ll still probably get better gas mileage while towing 2000 lbs with a car than you’d get with a truck or SUV