Wix makes great filters, and from what I’ve read the K&Ns are Mobil 1s in a cooler housing.

When I got the Rover I did for a while, because I didn’t know where it came from and the results I originally got back where pretty bad, but after a few short interval changes the analysis got a lot better as you can see. I do one or two a year just to check it up once I know the car. I haven’t done my new truck yet…

They did. But it wasn’t a significant drop.

Real synthetics. Group IV,V, and VI.

Yikes, the no thread one is pretty poor QC.

Pretty sure M1 makes a 5w-50. Gold cap.

Yea, but conventional oil breaks down differently and has inferior heat resistance than synthetic.

I have a Fram Tough Guard on my truck right now (it was free!) and those aren’t bad, but I never would use a regular orange one, ever.

Right, and and when conventional 10w-30 breaks down, it becomes more of a 10w-20. When synthetic breaks down, it breaks down the other way to be more of a 20w-30. That’s enough to make me switch right there.

There’s a whole bunch of internet information out there of people cutting filters open (both before and after being used) and examining the construction. Google it and see for yourself. I never buy cheap filters; especially when you want to start pushing longer intervals. But that depends on the car and motor... if…

Yup, don’t want that. The reason I used it was because the Rover motors like to eat cams too, but of course the head gasket blew 25k miles later and I junked the poor thing because I didn’t have the time to fix it.

Yup still does. Here’s an oil report from 2015. The T6 cleaned out my motor so well Blackstone thought I fixed something.

Yup, I remember that one as well. I actually got into this whole oil thing in high school when a Fram filter collapsed on my Jeep. Lots of people say it happens on the internet but it actually happened to me while driving. Luckily I caught it real quick when the oil pressure gauge dropped.

Yea, we aren’t seeing what the crankcases and valve covers of these motors look like after 50k miles. Another piece of data thats missing and hard to track. You can use cheap junk oil, drive hard, and change every 3k but after a couple years of that it’s gonna be sludge city.

Rotella has a great additive package with lots of ZDDP.

Filters make a big difference, and unfortunately isn’t tracked in the data here. I almost always use Mobile 1 filters, they’re more money but much better quality.

I mean, I don’t know. The only people sending this shit in are people who CARE, so that’s some hefty weight (lol) like you already mentioned. I KNOW my 4.os were much happier on Rotella (15w-40 or 5w-40 synthetic, depeding on which Jeep of on mine we’re talking about), because I beat them like misbehaving…

Correct

Parkways don’t even exist where I live now lol. But Ocean Parkway is way cooler than the Northern.

The the fuck out of here with this shit