theshinobi01
theshinobi01
theshinobi01

I’m actually looking at a 4th Gen 4Runner with the 3rd row. I want a body on frame SUV that can tow and survive the zombie apocalypse. I seriously hope Toyota doesn’t give the 4Runner that new bullshit 3.5L Atkinson cycle V6 in the Tacoma. And this SUV would be nice with the new 8 speed auto found in Land Cruiser.

Wow that is clean and +999 for stick shift.

Hrm maybe. I noticed mine on icy roads wasn’t so good, but on rain it was “ok”. My best “old” car I’ve owned that had ABS was my 1994 Acura Integra RS. Rain, snow, it would stop on a dime without much fanfare.

This guy is an idiot and doesn’t know how to drive a RWD car. I drove my 2 240's in 2-4" of snow with all season tires. First one had no ABS, second one did but the ABS was garbage.

The lesson learned here is to not buy a Ford. They pinch pennies in the worst possible ways. Ford Powershift transmissions anyone? How about Focus RS open deck design. If you are already engineering car design, why not make the whole front do well in an small overlap crash. Cause they are too fucking cheap.

Ha so many times I got caught in my 240SX. We were trying to get this Magnaflow exhaust on, but the piping from my friend’s wasn’t exactly lining up in my car....so we removed the exhaust and I stuffed it into my car. Literally my car shook at idle and was stupid loud, open headers ftw. I was pulled over by Montgomery

Actually it should be, 2018 study reveals the vehicles that are likely to go over 200k miles that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. ANY vehicle can hit 200k miles, if you keep engine and transmission swapping the car whenever it dies, it’s a pointless meaning. I’m 100% certain no General Motors SUV makes it to 200k

Yeah the an issue sometimes is knowing there is an issue. I knew something was up when on full and 3/4 lock I heard clicking. But if one just blasts music 24/7, one could potentially miss out. The axles wearing out quickly is probably my fault, I regularly drive 75-80 mph on highways around here and due to idiots in

It looks like a crappy TVR copycat, might get crushed. Why not drop 27k for this????? CP.

New Hampshire, automatic, safe and comfortable commuter? You can probably pick up an older Forester or Outback turbo, although the running costs will be decently high. You could maybe get a last generation Audi A4 or maybe 2 generations old.

Yeah my first manual car was my ‘94 Integra RS sedan. The shifter was kinda oddly shaped so it took a little getting used to. I learned to drive on a 1990 Toyota Celica ST with an amazing 106 hp! I accidentally up shifted on a hill and stalled the damn thing.

Nothing beats actually trying to drive a stick!

If you buy them standalone yes. Usually people will sell them with a 1UZ or like a 2JZ you can get a deal. Also you can go with the W58, although....I’ve seen some baaaad things with the W58 when you try to make big power.

I’ve seen some on Craigslist. Of course usually with a very very steep price. But some looked totally with with an R154 swap, all working interior.

I don’t believe they ever made the IS300 wagon with a stick, at least in America. Maybe our northern Canadian neighbors got lucky and you can grey import it/25 year import.

The only “modern” car I can think of that will be worth ANY decent cash is the Chevy SS. A large rear wheel drive sedan that sports an LS3, available stick shift, Brembo brakes, the newer models offer magnetic shocks, Australian made? Instant classic. That LS3 can be tuned insanely. And you can still find brand new

IS300's are already here. Try finding a manual transmission stock one for under like 8-10k, while automatic ones regularly go for 3-6k with the same mileage/condition. Then you have the insane crazy people who 1JZ/2JZ GTE swap them.

10k for a Lada that was probably like 3k new. GREAT idea.

A beat the fuck up E46 half assed converted to an EV with a questionable build history for 8k? What could possibly go wrong? Major CP.

Sold my slight issue ‘96 240SX for like 1800 bucks. I needed a reliable daily to get to work. It would randomly stall. I replaced the MAF, cleaned it. Didn’t want to deal with the idle air control valve (have to basically pull off the intake manifold to get to it). We had also changed out the fuel pressure regulator.