I’ll have to get those books, thanks!

That’s... a very good point. I would prefer to not buy gas from the middle east or russia, and I would prefer to not have a battery made in China.

That’s about what I’d concluded for adjusting the Konis. They come from the factory with way too little information apart from how to turn a knob.

I’m here for ZDX appreciation. Those things are sick.

Yeah, that was the goal. There’s still fine tuning to do. Right now I can make it transition out of corners with just lifting/pressing the gas pedal fairly well. I have Koni sports on it right now, and I’m not really satisfied with them. Generally finding it to be overdamped, and compression isn’t adjustable on them.…

Dogs are a valid argument!

Personal experience says it’s unimportant. Swaybars should really be the last suspension component to get touched. Don’t take my word for it, go read one of the million threads on this exact topic on Grassroots Motorsports or similar. Removing the front sway bar is a very common part of suspension setup for road…

A larger front sway bar will make a car push more. Misguided people “upgrade” them to limit body roll, but that’s the job of a spring, not a sway bar.

Meh. I prefer how these look. You shouldn’t be stacking stuff in the back such that it covers the window, so no cargo space that you should be using is lost anyways.

For the same outer diameter, weight generally favors a smaller wheel with a tire with large sidewall. There’s plenty of great tires out there with tall and very stiff sidewalls. 

Or just make 18, the current age of adulthood, the threshold for all the adult things. It’s not like highschoolers aren’t currently buying beer and weed.

Can’t find data for under 21 operators. I would like to see it if it exists. But, here’s two studies:

I went from 0mm (no sway bar) to a 28mm solid unit on the rear of my Golf. Magically, it turns way better. I didn’t notice a significant decrease in ride quality, but it was already lowered on stiff suspension. Because racecar. 

2020 Mirage G4 had a base MSRP of $ 14,995. They’re literally asking double the price from new for a used Mirage.

They’re also generally illegal for EPA reasons. Just don’t do it for a streetcar, unless a CARB/EPA certified one exists.

Front sway bars are almost never worth upgrading. In fact, you’re generally better off just removing it altogether. 

18 to 20 year olds were already able to hold a CDL in most states. In fact, most states already allowed under-21 operators to drive between states (1). You didn’t need a CDL if the vehicle you were operating was below a certain weight, length, or didn’t meet certain physical conditions (ie, air brakes, having a…

This is wrong. Lower the cars and fit the absolute smallest diameter wheel that will clear the brakes in the widest size you can fit. Choose a tire with a stiff sidewall and you won’t tell the difference, but also won’t break/curb wheels. And, meats. 

Was the clutch delay valve deleted? Tune alone should not kill a clutch unless it was very close to done. Generally, tuned cars get driven aggressively, and clutch delay valves resulting in clutch failures when driven aggressively is a well documented phenomenon. 

IMO anything from the last 15ish years, there’s little point in a flash. You’re adding power and usually making it more responsive, but the gains are so much more marginal than on old stuff, with the added bonus of almost always making your car illegal (unless you can find a CARB/EPA certified tune) and voiding the…