Yeah, my intuition is that GM may have been erring to the side of caution given the dismal state of high-output LEDs in the early-mid 2000s and built in some PWM and voltage regulation circuitry as well as fault detection into that PCB. 

yeah the PCB is almost certainly PWM, voltage regulation, fault detection, or some combination thereof. This seems entirely reasonable to me.

I highly, highly doubt there’s any weird signaling going here. I bet you those tail lights get a 100% normal brake/turn signal voltage and that PCB is for PWM and/or voltage regulation purposes. 

I doubt any of that is necessary. That PCB is either a voltage regulator, PWM controller, or both. Nothing unusual or scary to see here.

I’m nearly 1000000% sure the PCB is actually a solid state voltage regulator or PWM controller and this thing gets basic on/off signals just like every other tail light in existence. The lack of any proprietary trickery is further supported by the fact there are services to rebuild these for a very reasonable $500.

...by Fall Out Boy

I mostly find myself infuriated by the facebook post’s grammar. “Wait? What!” You’ve gone and switched the punctuation, idiots.

Agreed. I hate the Grr Angery Headlights nonsense of the facelifted trucks. 

F9s content continues to get better and better with every released video. This is on par with Top Gear production quality at its prime with stunning writing to match.

The NC is downright reasonable compared to the Sportcross.

I never got the implication from this article that the author is talking about anything other than auto/rally cross, track days, or other forms of performance driving given the other mods mentioned which nobody has any business pushing the limits of on public roads anyways.

I sure as hell didn’t think my NC needed…

‘02 IS300 Sportcross. Any loss in traction on any wheel and the throttle slams shut for about half a second. With the traction control button off it won’t cut power in a straight line, but if you’re going around a curve and the back steps out it cuts power and you’re absolutely helpless.

My ‘08 Miata works similarly…

My Lexus is like this. It’s absolutely horrendous. Only way to defeat it is to pull the ABS fuse or cut the wire to the steering angle sensor.

These comments make me think some people should learn how to drive.

The early 2000s Mazda6 and Mazda3 despite being a bastard to work on and rusting to pieces, respectively, are by far the best driving cars in their classes. I had a V6 6MT Mazda6 sedan and I’ve driven my buddy’s 2.3 manual Mazda3 hatch and I can’t exaggerate how nice a well-kept example of either is. Drive one, then…

That’s how motorcyclists commute around here.

But the Jeep looked rust-free

It’s so overwhelmingly meh. I like the styling but everything else about it... just... why would anyone choose this over anything else? As dumb as it was I was sort of hoping for an answer to the Jeep Renegade. A compact crossover that’s stylish, practical, but has legitimate off-road chops via Range-Rover-style…

Looks like fun in a parking garage...

My issue with the DCT is thus: I was riding one of these around in sport mode, as you do, and I came to a right turn at a green light. I slow down, begin to lean to take the turn, and midway through the turn the DCT decided to drop another gear suddenly engine braking far more than expected and causing the immediate…