klone121
klone121
klone121

since its a post ‘96 it has OBD 2 so that part makes it easier. It also means if you were to swap it would be the series II L67 which is far better than the series 1. Here’s a great write-up on everything needed, also includes a HD trans swap since the L36 trans (4t60e) is kind of weak.

Imagine the cost if you curb one of those rims.  Also, I bet over torquing them does horrible things.

That’s why oil filters have a check valve in them, they never fully die they just uh, stop filtering.

My guess is the issue is BECAUSE of the flush.  It’s common for air pockets to form when adding coolant if the system is not “burped” see my comment above.

If you are going to put a new 3.8 might as well make it supercharged!

Huh, never had that happen on any of my air cooled bikes :-P

This really sounds like it is the result of the mechanic not burping the coolant after doing the coolant flush. I used to use a pressure powered system to fill the coolant. Basically it uses shop air to create pressure to fill the radiator via a rubber cone. You shut the valve when you are almost out of coolant from

Agreed.  I assume the target audience for this is people who live in Colorado or similar states that have lots of snow and decent offroad areas.  Many of those places are high altitude where an NA engine gets weezy and a turbo could really pick up the slack.  Or... have a hybrid alternative where the electric motor

Little spellcheck for ya:

If you are going to make that comparison you may want to step up to the Si.  Not sure what the pricing will be but I’m sure it will cost within base to mildly optioned A3 range.  Also has a manual, LSD, and similar power numbers to an A3.

84 month loans is how!

I would love to know what the code is.  Many auto places will scan for free now.  My guess is MAF since VW’s will throw a code for the MAF if you look at it the wrong way.  Also at some point the timing chain guides and water pump will need replacing and that is a job for a true hero indeed.

1.5 times sure, not twice though.  This is arguably the SxS equivalent with an MSRP of 12,500

1992-1995 honda civic. Specifically the Si hatchback but I get if you need more doors. They are unstoppable. They are one of the easiest cars I’ve worked on and can easily accept a number of engine swaps in the Honda family. Great fuel economy, weigh around 2500 lbs, 125hp out of a 1.6L engine in an economy car, and

They do make electric SxS’s great for actually pulling gear (1,000 lb payload!) and can tow 1500lbs, silent running, no combustible liquid.

I had a 2013 civic si with 201hp and weighed 2874 lb the fact that we are now 8 years later and the power numbers are similar with more weight is not a good sign.  Given the torque was 170lb-ft at 4400 rpm which I’m sure this one has beat but I’m curious to see how much better the 0-60 times are.  Also the old 2.4L

I really don’t understand the use case for work bikes.  There’s no onboard storage and you have to keep a backpack full of tools on you to go out and mend fences and whatnot.  I guess they would be mainly for observational purposes such as checking on a perimeter?   A side by side pretty much everything better except

I saw one of these in a car museum so probably this:

These had a bad habit of rusting out the rear axle.  There was a recall on it where you would have to either grind it down and paint some goop on it if it was just service rust or outright replace the entire rear axle if it was bad.  There was a nationwide back order on rear axles for years.  ND at any price.

Came for AMC Eagle suggestion from DT, was not expecting Orlove