The bass-ackwards way I do axle nuts is a long breaker bar. Weigh yourself, figure out where on the bar to stand and you’re close enough IMHO.
The bass-ackwards way I do axle nuts is a long breaker bar. Weigh yourself, figure out where on the bar to stand and you’re close enough IMHO.
What the fuck is wrong with you? What effect does speaking Spanish, or any other language have on anyone’s ability to drive?
The Swinger was a trim level on the Dart. Should be Plymouth Scamp
Maybe throw some desiccant in there if you’re worried about it, but I really wouldn’t sweat it. Any condensation is distilled water, which is non-conductive, and I’d imagine the electronics stay warm enough to keep water from condensing on them anyway.
It’s not stupid. An electric car is a phenomenal second car, but a shitty main car, especially if you like to travel. Especially if you can’t even charge the thing at home, and have to go wait at a charger till it’s done.
Flattened a cam in my Dart. I’ve had a 5.9 Magnum on the stand for two years, but I’m two hours away from the car at college.
The 92-96 Ford trucks have a digital odometer that stops at 399,999! they saved money on the two display segments on the first character to go higher than a 3.
My Town Car was phenomenal. Dead reliable, other than the air shocks, which I replaced with coils. And that car was just comfortable as all hell. It wasn’t an exciting car to drive, but man was it easy. One finger steering, light brakes, big, roomy, and comfortable. Will buy another.
Nope! It’s going to be on a spline. Just make sure the new wheel goes on clocked the same as the old one, and you will have no issues.
Thats fair. I’ve had custom lines made in the past for hydraulic clutches at local hydraulic shops. Usually costs about $45 IIRC. That could be another option.
If it is in a steel line section, cut it out and use a compression fitting from the auto parts store to splice the line back together.
Did it in my Vette, huge difference. Fixes that over center pop sort of feel in clutch travel.
I had no idea some newer cars had a clutch delay valve. When I worked at a dealership, I’d get in some almost brand new cars and thought the clutch felt crazy.
I was a junior in HS, and I was daily driving my 73 Dart with the Slant 6. Fuel pump started leaking out the weep hole, started replacing that. Cracked some old alternator wiring. Went to unbolt the negative terminal, it split in half. Went to replace the negative cable, and realized the bolt it went into was behind…
No, Ford has screwed that up. Fiber cam gears on the 300.
Mechanical Engineering major here. No way to get through that degree anywhere using only Mac OS. When you have to do CAD work, your only real option under OS X is Fusion, which is rarely used. At least until the ARM Macs drop, you always have the option of Bootcamp. You get the best of both worlds.
For the money, what you want is a C5 Vette.
This is like 4 and a half years late, but the code will be printed on the computer, usually in the passenger foot well.
The switch is probably just iffy. Try spraying come contact cleaner down the shaft of the switches and press them an assload of times.
What does it say?