I’d be thrilled if I could adjust the mirrors on my motorcycle to show me something other than my elbows. I don’t have a lot of options on that bike besides “wear a jacket with a very loose collar” and “ride fast enough that anything behind you is only going to become MORE behind you over time.”

Star for you (even though I think the mirrors on the Odyssey are actually pretty decent).

I just bought a ‘14 Honda Odyssey - the driver’s side mirror actually is actually two discrete mirrors - one ‘normal’ and one (at the outer edge) that’s tilted for a SIGNIFICANTLY increased FOV into the “blind spot”. The passenger mirror is the usual convex jobbie, but maybe with a little more drastic curvature…

As a motorcyclist, this is one of my personal “danger checks” when I’m looking at traffic. If I can see the driver of the vehicle ahead of me in all 3 mirrors, then I have an indicator that they’re an idiot and I now know it’s in my best interest to execute a pass around that vehicle as swiftly as possible - no…

My first car (that is: first one purchased with my own money) was a 2001 Saturn SW2. That was an excellent car. 38mpg without issue and it was a station wagon with all the usefulness that entails. Cheap to run, cheap to insure and (possibly a roll of the dice) but quite reliable for the 80,000 miles I put on it…

The fast charger has pretty poor reviews for an Anker product and a lot of people complaining about alignment issues or not even being able to use even the most minimal case.

The fast charger has pretty poor reviews for an Anker product and a lot of people complaining about alignment issues…

Don’t even need a fancy train: just one slightly modified Ford.

Recommend.

Recommend.

Problem apparently solved: an off-lease 2014 Odyssey EX with under 17,000 miles showed up at a local dealership and we talked our way to a fairly reasonable $25,500 out the door (including tax/title/license).

Within the realm of vans mini I don’t think that anybody’s drivetrain comes anything close to “bulletproof”, but Chrysler’s certainly earned their seat at the “failed transmission and/or front suspension” table.

I keep trying to talk myself into it: “Gee, the $8K under the price of a comparable Honda/Toyota would buy a lot of transmissions...”

I’m keeping an eye on the minivans coming off the rental fleets. 1 year old, ~20,000 miles and significantly cheaper than market rate.

My vote went to the Oontz. I have one and it works well, so that’s points in its favor. What sets it apart here, though, is that it’s 1/2 to 1/5 the cost of the rest of the competition in the poll.

My vote went to the Oontz. I have one and it works well, so that’s points in its favor. What sets it apart here,…

My vote went to the Oontz because it’s CHEAP. <$30 compared to the rest which at near/over $100.

My vote went to the Oontz because it’s CHEAP. <$30 compared to the rest which at near/over $100.

I live in Colorado and generally commute on my motorcycle any time the roads are clear. My winter-specific gear is minimal and cheap, but I’m aided by a relatively short, low-speed commute and a motorcycle with decent wind-protection. Everything here gets me down to 30F at 50mph for 5 or 10 miles without complaints.

[...]researchers found that no matter what song volunteers used, most still didn’t press hard enough. Taking a class with a realistic model will help you understand how to position your hands and how hard to push—it’s harder than you think.

The car I learned to drive on was an ‘85 Cavalier. Oh, the memories.

Some part of the answer to that is “dangerous to you” vs. “dangerous to others”. With the privilege of a driver’s license comes the responsibility to the rest of society to keep several tons of metal which you are now approved to operate on public roads under your firm control at all times.

[...]look out for the “silent killers”: ball joints, tie rod ends, brake lines (in rust-belt states) and tires (checking for tire damage and tread depth). That’s it.

They still do. They just renamed it to “Crosstrek” for some reason ;-)