I have welded a small to reasonable amount myself (by pro standards), but have also worked in and ran shops with professional fabricators building Pro level race cars as well as building my own at home on occasion. I am no n00b to welding or race cars.

My pretend shops that I have done this in, and the ones that I have seen it done in are the same size or smaller than the one in the pictures. I've seen a car on a spit in a double garage before. It doesn't need a ton more space - the spit takes up maybe 2 feet either end of the car and you just need the extra space…

Right - I was assuming a full cage, in which case he'd have had to get into wheel arches, engine bays and front non-engine bay and more upside down welding. If the cage is much less comprehensive than I assumed it would be then the cost benefit in time alone doesn't make sense to mount it on a spit.

Technically, yes. Just make it stronger. You just have to make sure the fluids don't leak out, normally be removing them, but it's not something that is done routinely as it becomes a bit unwieldy to turn it when it is that heavy, though. It's better to do it as a bare chassis.

Because you want the cage to go to (or as near as possible) the suspension mounts front and rear, which means going through the front bulkhead and into the engine bay. Chassis stiffness and very big crashes dictate tying as much of the car into the cage as possible. It impacts the safety of the cage considerably if it…

Not uncommon, no. But not as easy as welding right side up. There are lots of build benefits to having the car on a spit, too.

I honesty don't know why people think it is a complicated or difficult job - presumably they've never seen one that race teams use. It is just a couple of A-frames and some round tube and then make a bracket to bolt to the front and rear of the car. Your chassis should be stripped down if you are installing the cage…

They clearly have tube and a welder. As I said, knocking one up would not take at all long.

Er, no. You rotate the car around it's centre of gravity, so it'd be about 5 feet off the floor at most. Also, you can rotate it 90 degrees, not just 180.

Why would they not just put the chassis on a rotating spit like all the other outfits do. It's not like they couldn't fabricate one in about 3 hours.

Why don't you get some shitty wheel and tyre assembly, fill the tyre with water and bolt it VERY securely to the spare wheel well. A small tyre (like a 13" steel) may be enough. The weight would be nice and low too.

Don't forget they did all this on shitty 1970's mahogany tyres, too. With spectators behind some armoured and impenetrable straw bales a blissfully safe 2 feet off the course either side of them. Plus no sleep.

The road book had some information in it, as I understand it, but the co-driver basically was there to shit himself (because he was actually looking where he was going for a change) to read spectators and interpret the road book/route as best he could and manage the timing computer/check ins at the end of each stage.

I'd be pissed at the cars behind that kept pace with some mildly panicked animals, frankly. He didn't seem to charge it (didn't put it's head down) but just ran into it. If the cars behind had left them more room maybe it would have calmed down before it hit the Nissan.

Much as I am sure he wants to race, it's not worth the risk. I mean, it's not as if it will hurt his championship hopes, is it....

And the 2015 award for most contrived and complicated joke set up goes to.....

Professional curiosity and a surprisingly clear head. I saw these guys at Toronto last year but we were too busy for me to go over and see how it was all set up. Also, we left early because we got spooned into a wall and broke the chassis in race 1. So that took the shine off 'giving a shit about anything else'.

How does this work? Is it one series running all the cars, or is it individual teams? I'd love to know what the budget is to do that. Be interesting to see where it stacks up.

Yes. In your situation you should be fast out of the last corner on the straight and just hold the inside line into the next corner if you lose on the straight, but coming onto the straight with +2-3mph should be enough to get you far enough on the first half of the straight to not lose entirely on the second half.…

Passing: The key thing is to not be affected by the other car. Imagine the old school picture in picture. Your line and your throttle points and braking points are on the main screen. You need to make sure that whatever the other car is doing is on the small picture or you just end up driving to what they do. If in…