This car would be amazing with a modern literbike or SxS engine that could fit in the same space as the 63 hp lump but provide something more like 180-200 hp.

Anything that weighs 1400 pounds less than a Smart ForTwo is an automatic win in my book.  15.75 lbs/hp isn’t that impressive, but a first-gen Miata was 18.25 so...

I recently retired my Alfa Romeo at 263000 miles.  It got used up to 300 miles daily, but then got hit and parked for two years while I fought with the insurance company.  When it was put back into service, it had constant electrical issues, oil leaks, brake and clutch hydraulic issues, and the clear coat had failed. …

We’re now in a world where wiring harnesses are falling apart after less than a decade; while that Volvo (cool choice!) will probably last forever, a 2015 Volvo very well may not.

Exactly what we went through cross-shopping a 2016 Outback with about 15k more miles than a 2018 Outback (also used). They were virtually the same car, but the 2016 was a decent bit cheaper and came with an extended powertrain warranty - I was happy to take on that gamble. 

At a certain point age and mileage become separate items when it comes to condition.

It’s amazing how some people can destroy a car in short order.

There is also the issue of buying before or after the “midlife crisis” point. I would rather buy a car with 170K that has had all of those common midlife issues addressed, than one with 110K that is going to need everything in short order, all else being equal.

I have been slowly shopping for a depreciated Rolls/Bentley for several years, now, looking for the right one. The sweet spot for these is about in the 80,000 mile category for something ~25 years old. You want one that’s been driven enough to need service regularly. If it’s 25-30 years old and only has 20,000 miles,…

Buying new and driving it a zillion miles a year can be a good strategy. Stuff doesn’t break as readily when it gets used gently. Getting stuff up to temperature for hours a day is a good bet for longevity. If it needs to be sold, it'll be in generally good shape.

Agreed here. There’re specific nuances per engine, per model line, per brand.

I had a 240sx that died (car accident) around the 320k mark. I put 20k miles on it prior to that. I ended up keeping the gauge cluster as a memento.

That depends, is it a honda? Is it a high mileage porsche that was driven lots but was maintained religiously? Is it a jaguar?

In my experience, neither mileage nor age matter so much if there is a fat stack of records that show preventative maintenance and repairs. I’ll use the example of the van I just bought. 2011 Odyssey Touring Elite with 128k miles. In just under 10 years since it’s purchase date, this thing went to one of two Honda…

When I was a teenager, I kept looking to buy a hearse, but they all had fairly low miles (for their age) that were all at very low speeds their entire lives and the engines all had issues.

It’s too dependent upon vehicle type and condition. As always, a thorough inspection and a keen eye to how it may have been treated are most important. Most of the used cars I’ve bought were higher mileage and reliable. The one I bought that was old “one owner little old lady” and with low miles was a nightmare POS.…

And a lifetime of “grocery store-church-cemetery-home” driving is really hard on a car. 30k miles of interstate travel is where it’s at.

Not all miles are created equal, so condition is paramount.

In the case of the Miata, I’d absolutely want the ND2 for the extra horses and updated transmission. 

Counter-point, neither. For a daily driver, a car of any age with age-appropriate miles. Call it 8 k to 15k per year.