That is why I absolutely love my 1st gen 2WD Tacoma. It’s LOW. The top of my bed sides are about level with the bed FLOOR on modern 4x4 full-size trucks.
That is why I absolutely love my 1st gen 2WD Tacoma. It’s LOW. The top of my bed sides are about level with the bed FLOOR on modern 4x4 full-size trucks.
While I appreciate FCA’s unyielding desire to shove a Hellcat into everything and the ridiculousness of it all, I’m really just not excited about this truck.
It’s just another ‘roided-up full-size “off-road” truck that’s way too long and too big to effectively navigate off-road areas where the majority of the…
No wonder why they project usable light at nearly a mile distance. They’re 165 watts each! Basically light cannons at that point!
The noise you’re hearing is just gear-whine from the differentials and reduction gearboxes.
Honestly? No, I wouldn’t want to sacrifice sounds for 1400 HP. 1400 HP is useless and can’t be utilized in any way for 99% of driving. A 200HP 4-cylinder that screams at 9,000 RPM can give you tons of fun at safe and sane speeds.
So they’re making a 4-door crew-cab truck version of the SUV that’s based on a 4-door crew-cab truck that also has another SUV based off it to compete against a truck that’s selling only 3,000-5,000 units/month. Do I have this right?
As others mentioned, it really almost certainly means that Mazda could not make it hit emissions or drivability standards. The power is more than adequate for most Americans (I mean just look at Subaru’s N/A lineup).
I’m still not sure how 140k is “too high” to be worth collecting? For most late 80s Japanese cars, they’re very likely to go 250k if they’re from areas that don’t use road salt.
Even for very modern cars, 140k isn’t high miles by any stretch. I’d consider that low miles for an ‘88. This isn’t 1957 where cars were…
140k is “high miles”? 140k isn’t much at all, especially for something 32 years old.
...there isn’t A LOT more than 17k invested here. It’s got big leaf springs, after-market front control arms, and some extended shocks. I bet that lift kit was $3k at most.
That’s still double an average car. You got an exceedingly good deal on your tires. Looking at Tirerack, most of the tires for a 2020 SuperDuty with 20" wheels are going for $300-300+ per tire. The 18" tires are running a little cheaper.
That’s not a great comparison to make, because cars get you much more per dollar. A modern 1/2 ton starts at ~$27,000 these days, and typically comes with rubber floors and crank windows.
I get it. I do, it still doesn’t change the fact that if you work out the numbers, it doesn’t make sense.
Seriously, you’re comparing a base model Silverado to expensive premium Luxury vehicles with demanding maintenance needs?
I make that much (well did, not anymore), and that’s $170/year in fuel, or $1,000 over 6 years. That’s not insignificant. The two vehicles chosen for this comparison were also kind of cherry-picked. Most people get the 3.5L F-150, which gets worse fuel economy, and many CUVs now achieve or exceed 30 MPG.
The problem is that is not how you pitched your post. You pitched the truck as some kind of practical do-it-all machine that saves you money because you don’t need to pay delivery fees or a rent a truck to tow a car or yadda yadda.
Yes, but like I said in my other post, you spend that $2,000 you saved in delivery costs every single year just in fuel, never mind everything else.
Yes, just look at routine maintenance stuff.
The problem is you’re not “saving” hundreds of dollars on delivery fees. You’re actually hemorrhaging thousands of dollars per year.
Here’s the thing “2-4" MPG is relative. 2-4 MPG on something that gets 45 MPG is no big deal. 2-4 MPG on something that gets 20 MPG is a 10-20% difference. That’s significant over the lifetime of the vehicle.
There’s also the fact that most of a truck’s cargo area is unprotected, they’re physically larger, taller, and…