Why wouldn’t I? I like manuals, V8's, turbo’s, and $kay’s comments every now and then.

Where did I say that? I simply said generalizing a website’s users as “older/whiter” is silly.

What in the fuck does racial inequality, BLM, or Trump have to do with cars?

Hey feel free to shut the fuck up. Generalizing Jalop’s that way is the same as people who call BLM nothing but rioters. Pot meets kettle.

She sounds like every girl who was in in-school-suspension with me the few times I got written up. All of them were pregnant before leaving HS.

I have seen the Avalanche often grouped in with the Aztec so I wanted to make it’s case.

Will probably see Project Cars 3 before we see another Gran Turismo.

“Now the one thing to be aware of, especially with FCA brand dealerships, is that often these advertised prices are stacked with rebates that not everyone will qualify for. So make sure you get a full breakdown of the pricing before you commit to anything.”

Now this I can get behind.

I was going to post that they are both a bit messy but in this particular comment with both side by side, can confirm. The Nav looks like a POS from 2001 compared to the Caddy.

Isn’t that called a Venza?

Don’t understand the doubt. An SRT Durango makes much more sense for a performance vehicle than an SRT Grand Cherokee. Durango has always looked better than GC too.

DC/Baltimore.

Damn. I’m 5'8" and 165 and I am by far the thinnest one of all my friends.

The only 6.2 second 0-60 runs I’ve seen are launches with 4-5k clutch drops. Daily driving it feel more in the 7-7.5. Same reason I sold my WRX so quick. 4.7 on a perfect day if you don’t value anything, easily mid 5's if you’re just driving to the store/work.

Why would it be risky? Car is still insured, it won’t be paid off but for a month or two depending on how quickly you want to sell it/for what price. The past few vehicles I’ve sold have been in the $15-23k range and each time the private party sale was at least $2-5k more than anything carmax or a dealer offered. I…

True, my general rule has been don’t take out a loan on a car unless you can pay it off within a month. Situations change, and you never want to be in a place where you owe more than what it’s worth or what you can pay off.

Absolutelty and I know that was the gist of your article, for people who can’t pay it off, what options are there. I just figured I’d add in a couple more things to consider other than the obvious. That many banks and people won’t consider your car simply because it has a lien. Flipping about 28 cars or so since 2008…

I believe MD is same. That’s why I mentioned title in hand and free and clear. The last car I sold in October I had paid off and had a lien release letter and letter from bank that title was in my name and is being sent to my state(VA) and will be an electronic title, so then DMV prints and mails it or you can request…

Having done this several times in the past 3 years, by far the easiest method is to pay it off, get the title and then list it for sale. Buyer can pay with cash or with a check from their bank/CU and you can do all notarized paperwork and make sure check is authentic and deposited in bank of your choice.