racermd
racermd
racermd

Why slot them into boxes like that at all?! All 3 platforms take to all tasks easily well. If it weren’t for the fact that I need some parts that I don’t currently have the budget for, my current NA is a great daily driver. It’s also a great track rat with the right tweaks. There’s no reason why the NB and NC can’t

Maybe a bit late to get this in where it matters but...  THUNDERCOUGARFALCONBIRD!

I’m infosec-adjacent, myself and know a few thing about any company attempting to land supplier contract work with government entities (which GM absolutely has). As large as GM is, I’m sure they’ve been audited for compliance on their DFARS contracts at least once because, I’d have to assume, they’re a big enough

In all seriousness, the 3/4-ton-and-up pickups aren’t really meant to be daily drivers. Those that can afford at tarted up 3/4-ton pickup also have something more *reasonable* to dote around town in. In this scenario, the pickup is usually meant to haul the toys to/from the vacation property like a big boat or a giant

I’m not so much worried about inadequate security professionals in the right positions at major auto manufacturers. After all, they have internal IT departments and need to secure their own infrastructure which, presumably, they’re doing.

Yes, the Model M is the unit of measure for any other keyboard. However, they’re not exactly on the affordable end of the spectrum. Either you need to find a grungy one and clean it up or pay another outfit that has already done all that work. And, at the end of the day, you still have a *used* keyboard.

Yes, the Model M is the unit of measure for any other keyboard. However, they’re not exactly on the affordable end

Two factors.

I lease almost exclusively these days (GASP! The HORROR!) but I still put together a list of common parts so I don’t have to pay jacked-up prices at the dealer to get them replaced. Besides, I usually only get a few free oil changes which doesn’t cover the entire lease period so I have an easy-to-reference parts list

The first thing I do when getting a new vehicle - actually, BEFORE getting it - is to download the PDF of the owner’s manual(s) to my computer at home with a copy on my phone. Then, I start putting together a list of spare parts and common specs. For instance:

Another Pasty-American that actually likes food, I agree - what the fuck is with the raisins? And I’ll go a step further - craisins can fuck right off, too.

In a word, yes. Emergency services typically don’t even use CallerID unless they have no other data. They are provided number and location data from a totally separate system and it’s colloquially referred to as ANI/ALI (Automatic Number Identifier and Automatic Location Identifier).

Wait a minute - I often park my vehicles in an inoperable state for more than 24 hours at a time in my garage. They’re not operable without the key and/or my super-secret kill devices (okay, it’s just a battery cutoff with a removable handle and does, indeed, deter theft). I’m basically a potato from Friday 7p to

I’ll take you a few steps further - ALL compulsory driver-safety aids need to go. Or, at least, make them manually defeatable for situations where they’re clearly not working as intended.

At least in all the other Lego games I’ve played, dying meant only that you’d lose a bunch of studs that you’re trying to collect to unlock additional features. You don’t really have a “score” beyond that. Otherwise, dying doesn’t do anything other than delay the game a bit. It doesn’t prevent you from completing any

“...you were supposed to cover up the ‘flavor’ of their ‘pizza’ with a flood of ‘ranch’dressing’.” 

Agreed. Whole-heartedly.

I see they found a use for all those old ignition cylinders, then...

‘17 Sierra with the 6.2L. Getting mid-20s in combined city/highway myself. I don’t drive like a grandma but I don’t exactly hammer it, either.

10.6L X-16 engines?  Sign me up!

If designed properly, a boosted engine should be able to keep the vehicle at an appropriate cruise speed (with a bit of a buffer) without dipping into the boost. Boost should be there for any moderate or hard acceleration and that’s about it. Otherwise, you’re into the boost too much and fuel economy is going to