You mean apart from the dodgy wiring looms, the transfer boxes that leak and then shit themselves as they have faulty rear seals and no filler/check plug, the breather hoses that rub through and give idle/low throttle jerking issues - oh and the EPIC rust from the inside out that’s hidden under the plastic sill covers…

What you did there?
 I saw it.

Phew. I was getting very apprehensive about your post in response to this one....

Fortunately we can always count on mad blokes in a shed to keep us entertained - have a 2.0 litre V16 where the rev counter starts at “Yes” and ends at “Lots”

What were you looking for on electric power steering?

I’ve just build a new electro-hydraulic system for the buggy with solid state PWM control, idle modes, etc, so may be able to help.

Apart from any of the bits where it says ‘advanced’ or ‘running’

TL:DR - “Some.”

‘cause it never stops drifting :(

We’re not a drift team, but if it was, I’d have to be:

“Why Won’t It Stop Drifting?!”

I sold a 2.1 with a warm cam, needle rockers, etc, for £200 (about $250)

Either, or both.

Of course it’s overheating....


...you forgot to put coolant in it.

I see that you too share my level of faith in humanity.

Definately the tyres, I’ve built similar cars with similar weight, 600+bhp, trick diffs, paddleshift, etc - they don’t go very well off the line even with tarmac rally tyres.

Nah, you only need one wheel...

You’ll probably have 3-4” just in droop travel on most cars, and that’s before it overshoots. Stick it under something you know will stay put :)

The base of most screw jacks is as big as most small bottle jacks, so the tipping applies to both. Screw failure - failure mode, same as the jack seal.
I’ve had far more jack seals fail than jack screws.

He’s going to get one soon - “Corpse”

Put it under the sill, the rotor is free to spin and move and it’s a sprung part so the car might still bounce off your face.

That’s no reason to get under it without stands.