My neighbor dumped his 535xi for a Ford Explorer recently. I don’t know about electrical issues but his driveway was looking like a Superfund site from all the leaking oil.
My neighbor dumped his 535xi for a Ford Explorer recently. I don’t know about electrical issues but his driveway was looking like a Superfund site from all the leaking oil.
I was recently pleased to discover how easily CRF50s and 70s fit into my basement. I now have 2 50s and a 70. Undecided on a CRF80 or another 70...
Yeah, they were close to par with 360s 5 or 6 years ago. Now...not so much.
If CAFE was rolled too far back, I’d expect CARB to implement regulations of their own. State rights, right? My Google is failing me but I recall that the 16 or so CARB states represent more than 1/2 of all vehicle purchases. CARB has a lot of power.
I was scrolling down to point out that the price couldn’t possibly be right. :)
I give the exact same advice as you. If 1/2 the range covers you most of the time, it will work. That makes the battery happier over the long run too.
FWIW, an e-golf can hit EPA (83 miles?) at 65mph. I have no problem using it for 70 mile RT airport runs since traffic limits my speed. I wouldn’t do it in the dead of winter though.
If it’s a 3rd car and you’re commuting, there’s no reason to install an upgraded EVSE (“charger”). You can use the one that came with car. The Leaf EVSE can be converted to be auto-selecting 120/240 for $300 IIRC (search Leaf EVSE upgrade), so you can double charge rate with the stock one for cheap.
Early Leafs have serious battery issues, especially in hotter climates. Range drops quickly. There is a battery health gauge on the dash that every potential used Leaf buyer needs to research and understand. The 8 year/100k warranty does NOT warrant capacity. 40 mile range? Too bad - it still moves, right?
I’ve owned my 360 for 6 years. It took me a long time to become comfortable with it but now I can’t imagine parting with it. I don’t really drive it all that much but that’s more about the limitations of a low, loud, 2 seat car than worry. I drive it to work, Lowes, whatever. As long as I know I can park it…
That thing sounds just amazing.
Most of your points are completely true (I’ve never heard that a 355 was a handful but I’ve never driven one either) about any “affordable” Ferrari. And yet, when I toss my C6Z06-owning buddy the keys to my 360, he comes back positively lit up even if his Corvette is better than my car in every measurable way. And…
Exactly. I’ve done plenty of belt swaps. Cylinder head gasket R&Rs. I built my FFR Cobra. I supposed I could do the belt in my 360 but the downside just doesn’t pencil out.
FWIW, many of the respected independents (Competizione in MD, AutoElite in NJ are two I’m familiar with) are comfortable recommending 5 year intervals to their clients.
This right here. I struggle with it everyday. “Yes, the powerpoint presentation you saw was amazing but this actual thing we have right now works pretty well.”
I see so many things to integrate. The complexity will be off the charts. No way all that stuff is going to work as claimed.
That’s...weird. I’m 6' tall and wear a 12 shoe and don’t recall having a problem. I owned an S4s for 6 years. The only issue I had was the lack of a dead pedal. I drove a friend’s V8 and don’t recall any difference.
Regarding time, now people need to take the time to turn their buyback in, remove it from their insurance, deal with the financing after their payout, and then restart the whole, potentially long car buying process all over again. Time is money, but everyone’s time is worth different amounts of money.
I’ll relate a story from my friend, when he was a younger (and gifted) engineer working as a government consultant. He was really riding a contractor about some design decisions which met the spec but were poorly considered. At some point during the day, a senior manager took him aside and said, in so many words…
Thank you. Unless you’re a full blown shop attached to a well stocked junkyard, conversions get expensive.