They very well may be shady but much of that says “low overhead” to me. When you see a really nice dealership, remember who pays for that. YOU do. My local Chevy dealer was strong-armed by GM into doing 3MM worth of capital improvements. While the spiffy new digs may help foot traffic some and generate a few more…

Once upon a time, my 1984 500 Interceptor weighed ~450lbs!

There are plenty of well-respected independents. Off the top of my head, in NJ there’s Auto Elite in Tenafly, Classic Coach (FNA’s go-to body shop in addition to mechanicals) in Edison, and Exoticars USA in Frenchtown. Nobody is going to complain about receipts from them.

If I recall correctly, replacing the clutch in an earlier Spyder requires removing the top! There are some inaccessible upper subframe bolts that have to come out. I think later cars had access panels.

Oh damn, that’s gotta suck.

I would probably tell you the same thing at a Cars & Coffee. I’ve had one failure in 5 years - a clutch release bearing. My total ownership costs are still easily over $10k. Probably closer to 12 (I try not to dwell on it too much!).

Noone expects the 360 to be a Kia, we would just prefer an honest discussion of the downside risk. I had 3 trouble-free years with my 360. DIY fluid changes only (oil, trans, brake fluid) and a set of tires. The 4th year cost $8000 between the clutch release bearing taking a dump and an early major service because the…

To add some detail to the “better have a slush fund” mantra, I’m holding a receipt from Competizione in MD, one (some say *the*) of the premier independent Ferrari service facilities on the East Coast. They are fair but not free. Labor was $115/hr at the time (2009). The car had 16,600 miles on it at the time. It was…

Sorry, a hideous white/blue spyder and a 53,000 mile F1 Euro car do not support your opinion. Prices have been trending higher for good cars.

It’s about 12hrs of labor. Normal hand tools. You can do it on jackstands. If it’s an F1 trans, you’ll have to tow it to the dealer to set it up though.

I looked into the LS swap for grins. The only way to do it for $6500 is if you’re a professional fabricator. The Renegade hardware alone (should you choose to go with them) is about $6500.

Well Gee Mr Snark. I wonder why it’s so reliable?

well known to be reliable as a rock. Does anyone bother to learn anything after the knee jerk “its soooooooo complicated”?

They are simple as dirt. The batteries suck though because they have no active cooling. Nissan pushed the warranty out but you can still get caught out.

Thing is they have proven to be amazingly reliable and the thermally controlled battery packs are exceeding all expectations. But, GM-not-quite-an-EV sucks amirite?

They GT350 gets an expanded tunnel to fit it in the back.

Wow. That’s sharp. You really have to dig through their web site to find a picture of it. That doesn’t seem like the best marketing approach to me. :)

The Cobra kits are based on Fox body and newer Mustangs, NOT the Mustang II. They also sell everything-but-the-drivetrain packages if you want all-new.

This. My wife once called me from her car. “Do you know what an Aston Martin D...B...S is? Can we get one?”

My experience with a ‘95 S4s (the final edition 4cyl car in the US) over 6 years and 30k miles was fantastic. It wasn’t perfect but it was tremendous fun and far more solid than I ever expected. The only real problem I had with it was oil leaking at the cam towers that was taken care of during the timing belt service.…