Creatine reserves can get slightly depleted over time, but they also regenerate themselves within standard weightlifting rest periods (3-5 minutes between sets) if your nutritional intake is adequate. Excess warm up sets above ~60% of max can fatigue you and negatively affect your work sets, but you shouldn’t be doing…

If the ST had been available when I was buying back in 2012 I probably would have taken one of those home, but I’m very happy with my 2. After just over 80,000 miles it’s been the most trouble free car I’ve ever had, the things I’d had to fix or replace have been easy to service and inexpensive, and after nearly 5…

+1 on all of this. They’re great autocross cars (Andy Hollis won STF in one at Solo Nationals a few years back), and excellent daily drivers. I bought mine on steering feel alone.

That’s why I got mine. Halfway through the test drive I got nostalgia for my ‘89 CRX Si and that was pretty much that.

But the Fiesta drives like a truck and the 2 drives like a Miata. I test drove them back to back and ended up going home with a 2.

Corksport bars and shocks, and Eibach Pro Kits really tighten things up. That’s the setup I’m running and it’s perfect for my 90% commuting, 10% canyon driving mix.

It’s not that heavy. I’ve had mine across a DOT scale and it weighs in around 2350# stock with 185 pounds of driver and a full tank of gas.

I’ve never had a problem with mine, and my daily commute starts with a short uphill on-ramp. Maybe keep your foot in it for a bit.

I’m pretty sure this is the happy face, see as how it’s the same car and all.

I’m literally wearing the Black strap/face version of that watch right now. Excellent daily watch, especially if you have smaller wrists.

You might be a fan of Flight or Field Watch styles. They tend to be simple designs with high contrast, easy to read hour markers and hands. They won’t have features beyond a day date window, but that’s all you really need most of the time.

That’s what the Seiko is for. It’s a solid mechanical watch, but it’s not so expensive that if you misplace it you’ll be really broken up about it.

The socket trays are the way to go. Just as easy to find the right socket, but you don’t have to yank the damn thing off. This makes it much easier to grab the right socket with a greasy hand.

Oddly, the last repair I made on my car utilized both the multimeter and the soldering station. Turns out, after 30 years the solders on the dimmer switch on my AW11 cracked, taking out my instrument panel lighting. A bit of prodding with the multimeter told me where the problem was, and a quick dab of new solder and…

They fixed a Prius.

Marketing, mostly. They also have a booklet with exercises that are easily available online.

I learned welding on my College’s Baja SAE team, so I jumped straight into TIG and that’s my standard. I always hate seeing cars with MIG welded cages, they’re probably strong enough but I hate how inconsistent and lumpy the bead is.

A star for the Spamalot reference.

It’s a MIG gun, it’s not rocket science. If you look at the resultant welds you’ll see that the expert’s bead was a lot tighter, much more uniform, and with a lot less spatter. Both welds will probably hold up just fine, but the expert level weld is good as is while the other one will need some finishing.

That engine is pretty bad. My Dad had a 2003 Sebring, and there’s a driveshaft in his garage from it’s first motor with 1/4"+ gouges from the factory standard sludge issues. the fact that your’s made it to 175k is nothing short of a miracle.