Slowly isn’t really the way to do it, you want to lower the weight (eccentric) in a controlled manner, and lift it (concentric) as explosively as possible. As the weights get heavier that explosiveness won’t result in a lot of velocity, but it should still be as fast as possible. If you’re doing higher rep, High…

Most outdoor grades are sandbagged like crazy.

Who said anything about longevity?

I’d say he could have been at a similar level to Paul Newman had he lived longer. He was lined up to drive a Porsche 917 at Le Mans (the race) before being told that if he did so Le Mans (the movie) would be cancelled, and opted for driving for a summer instead of a few stints in the race. Newman didn’t get heavily…

I was just about to say. McQueen wasn’t Michael Schumacher or Sterling Moss, but he was still one hell of a racer (both two wheels and four).

They have a ton of rear weight bias, but they also have fast-ish rebound damping, so you get a little bit of forward pitch in the air. If you know you’ll be doing a lot of jumping you can tune that out to some extent, but at the expense of on-throttle rear traction. Many of these are driven in a drifty style on loose…

Literally all of them... at once.

That’s usually a good summary of my major mechanical exploits as well. I just dive in at this point, stupidly confident that I’ll figure it out one way or another.

That’s right. I had that completely backwards in my mind. It punishes mid corner lift even more, which is always a good time for an inexperienced operator.

It takes that temperature for powdered magnesium to ignite. A big brick of it dissipates that heat very effectively and doesn’t allow for enough oxygen to be present to cause ignition. The only reason you had the occasional magnesium wheel fire back in the day was the combination of glowing hot brake rotors, decent…

They actually have a surprising amount of trunk space, and in fact have two of them to boot. The early 2nd gens toed out pretty aggressively under acceleration due to the rear toe link design which made them a handful for inexperienced drivers, and the later models overcorrected to pretty heavy toe in which made them…

You don’t have to drop the engine, just undo the engine mount and lower it a bit. You can get to everything just fine if you’re not particularly fond of your knuckle skin.

Me and my AW11 disagree with you 100000000000%.

I read the question and came to basically the same conclusions of the author(s). Mustang, Corvette, Wrangler, or something beetle-based. Parts will be available forever, none of them will bankrupt you over a repair, and you’ll enjoy yourself the whole time.

Oil is the reason I even know that Odessa exists. 1 star, would not visit again.

Also a pornstar, though there is some “themed” overlap. I doubt a bit of it is COTD-appropriate.

Why would you want to drive to Odessa? I’ve been there once, and that was plenty.

I’m sure there’s somewhere in the US that’s doing something like this. The buy-in for a Mig isn’t too bad as far as jet aircraft ownership is concerned, it’s the upkeep that’ll get you. $19k a ride seems like plenty to keep the thing airborne.

I feel like if you’re driving somewhere where you have 4WD engaged by necessity you should probably carry some extra fuel with you.

I see that the Mazda models on the list all have wildly pessimistic Empty Lights. This mirrors my experience in my Mazda 2, where the car says it’s empty when it does, in fact, have a 1/4 tank or more remaining. I suppose that’s good for fuel system component life, but it can certainly be annoying.