All of these cars should be classified together. It’s a great car until the bills hit. So, really, before buying something like this you have to figure out what it is REALLY going to cost you for the next 50k-100k and THEN decide if it’s a nice price or not. My guess is that $3k is just a deposit.

I owned a 94 Stealth R/T. This was mechanically identical to the 3000GT but was the NON Turbo model. The car was beautiful, but not very fun to drive with torque steer and was a heavy vehicle. Reliability was average - not great, but not as bad as other Mitsubishis (like the Eclipse). Honestly, I craved getting a more…

All of these are the same thing. The questions are: will it leave you stranded at some point and what are the repair costs. If you could see that ahead of time or have a factory warranty that covered you for 5 years, the price would more reflect that. Tech is obviously old, but it’s a good looking vehicle with a…

Uh huh. And what in god’s name would I DO with something like this? I certainly am not going to trust this antique to take my family on a road trip. Safety alone issues would make it irresponsible at best. And adding a manual doesn’t make EVERY car better. 30k in 80s development = 100k miles today. Hard Pass.

I looked seriously at the Solara convertible awhile back due to the fact that it’s a reliable, 4 door convertible. It’s a great overall car and minus some issues (like dash cracking which is a pretty serious asthetic defect), but being a Camry-based and Toyota, it’s a likely enjoyable ride with minimal risk.

To me, it’s pretty simple. There’s no doubt that it’s a very fun Porsche to drive and I’m sure handles just like you’d expect it to. There’s only one real question and that’s ongoing costs. When you run into issues, who is going to fix it and how much? If you can do it with your own lift, plenty of time with a backup…

Yeah, uh, no. $14,000 for a near 200k mile, 18 year old off-roading vehicle? Dear god, why? I thought the point of off-road vehicles was to get something cheap since you will have to spend money on suspension-related fixes and such.

Well, the general rule of investing is to sell when everyone buys and to buy when others are selling. My bet is that none of these would really give you much of a return unless you just scored a huge win (in which case you could probably flip it immediately for a profit). Buying something like an Integra Type R now…

Ummm... WTF is this crap?

I’m not a big fan of big gov agencies, but I still say that I appreciate the fact the EPA makes a conversative and so, likely more realistic range. We, Americans, should expect more limited range anyway. Coming from a 2012 Leaf that was down to 12 kWh of real range, I can say that driving 80+ mph as well as using…

For a car like this, you’d almost have to have the philosophy that you might not own it long. This is NOT one that you get a loan for. You buy it, maybe set aside $10k for “reasonable repairs” and be prepared to dump it should a big bill come your way. I would certainly think that you could find a better option maybe…

I owned a 94 Stealth R/T (non-turbo, mechanically identical to 3000GT) and it was an “okay” car. Despite 220+ HP, it was NOT a very fun car to drive with massive torque steer and was a heavy car. Very pretty, but only “okay” on reliability as well. Timing Belt/water pump every 60k for $1k, had clutch cylinder fail as…

Nope. I mean, I get it, but it’s a poor investment anyway you look at it and will be a nightmare to maintain. The Taurus of that generation has historically very poor reliability new, so I’d imagine every freaking part on that car is going to break. I’m not really sure why you would buy this.

It’s pretty simple. At $1,700 ANY vehicle that you like is a NP presuming that you accept the downsides (older vs modern safety, the risk of it dying in the middle of the interstate, etc). It certainly seems like a clean style, useful vehicle, so sure, go for it.

In terms of car buying, it’s all about following the money and asking who is getting what. ALL Buying Services (with the exception for those that you pay a flat fee for) are making money from commissions. So, when you use one of these services, the Dealer has to pay the service to talk to you and that is coming out of…

Um, no. You don’t know what you want. Sure, an Accord Sport 2.0T is an excellent choice as suggested, but then some day you’re going to get sick of the MT or you’ll get sick of needing someone else to drive it and they can’t. Want a MT car, then pickup a cheap Miata or a small car for commuting. For a family car, you…

I guess it all depends on reliability and repair costs. If they are reasonable, then it’s a good buy, if not, then well...

Well, I think this article is incomplete. Luckily, I DON’T have to travel for work, so I certainly don’t have the experience that many other people have, but here are my thoughts.

“At $1, Does This 1990 Chevy Beretta”... No thanks. Pass. CP.

I’d say only because of the 2 year unlimited warranty mileage warranty.