I learned HTML by hand because I used a text editor and Telnet right off the bat, without doing a preview and upload via FTP. Now I use Dreamweaver in dual view mode (hand coding in the text area) but only use the built in features for the simple shortcut stuff (adding a hyperlink or mailto, positioning an image)…

I used to swear by the "drink upside down" method, but my 14 year old son could never do it. We tried the teaspon of sugar method, though, and it works great every time! (And he's too young for the method at impactednurse.com)