Just don’t mod a car you can’t afford to fix on your dime.

What is a pain though, is that Audi will actually void your rust warranty if you have the TD1 flag. Haven’t heard that from VW so that it with a pinch of salt.

Reliability is iffy with Thrustmaster T300 and T500. This is set to be the higher end wheel, above the TS-PC.

They had lots of troubles with overheating or DOA gear in the previous years.

AFAIK, or maybe its just on older CJs, but its just a standard Dana axle with the dually tires attachment for more grip. It’s not stronger.

Read your article and had a gearbox to throw out. Wasn’t worth it to put it on ebay so shipping it out was the next best thing :)

That’s how the uHaul trailers are meant to be used, the wheel straps are in the front. The jeep weights 3300lbs and the uhaul trailer is 2200 if I recall correctly. Easy enough on a Raptor.

Happy to hear those gears I sent you are still working, at least a few of them!

For the play in the brake pedal, I don’t know for CJ2As, but on military jeeps, you should have a felt pad and spring under the tub that should preload the pedal a bit.

EDIT : that’s after adjusting the rod

Yeah the whole leather belt thing really surprised me aha

Indeed, as long as it doesn’t make its way into the oil ^^

There are reproduction cylinder heads being made now, they should be ok out of the box. And flatheads have no moveable parts on the head, literally a 30min job to swap a head. Swapping a whole axle would be easier to swap than the gearset, just a bit hard to…

And swapping a cylinder head is probably cheaper than having it machined.

Well a coolant leak on the side of the engine might not be as bad as a blown rear diff.

Front diff wouldn’t be so important, just pull the axle shafts and keep on ‘truckin.

But indeed, I’d rework certain things if I were in his shoes.

Could be simply grease or grime that made its way under the ring gear when the bolts loosened. Just check with a straight edge diagonally. And get rid of those lock tabs, red loctite is more than enough and if torqued properly, should come loose for the next 70 years!

or even cheap paint. I’d clean it after with brake cleaner though. But yeah, it’s cheap considering the diff could be a ticking time bomb!

Yeah there shouldn’t be a gap there unfortunately. Have you checked the ring gear and carrier for flatness? Maybe it could be trued-up by a machinist and backlash adjusted.

At the very least I would check the pattern with dye. Apply it to all teeth and you’ll know if it’s crooked by having a different pattern around…

Yeah and the locktabs aren’t really helping in keeping the heads from turning as say, safety wire would.

Was it crooked after you swap bolts or before? It really shouldn’t be. If you’re unsure about the rear diff, I would swap it if I were you. It’s already a pain to swap gears in a “heated” shop, I can’t even begin…

For reference, torque spec for the ring gear bolts is : 50lb.ft. Bearing caps : 38-42 lb.ft
One shouldn’t re-use old bolts either, needs brand new Grade 8 bolts. Head over to your CAT dealer or to any driveline shop for some Dana-Spicer bolts

Not sure what you meant by “crooked” ring gear but you should slap a magnetic dial to your diff and mesure gear runout. Specs is max 0,003" of variation in runout. Certainly not visible by eye. If it’s more than that, it won’t make it very far.

and I hope David didn’t re-use the lock tabs :S

Haha that’s fantastic, I’m stealing that saying now :D

That’s why you can start it with a crank handle.

Check the grounds David, it’s public enemy numero uno on those 6V system.