gregoryw
gregoryw
gregoryw

These are both exercises in ridiculousness, or ludicrousness as the case may be. I actually prefer the narrow body models to the wider turbo body cars. They’re the perfect shape, where the 981 Boxster/Cayman is a far too narrow on the rear track for a rear bias car. A 3.0L turbo is stupid fast. I can’t see needing

Tesla “horsepower” is not really what you would expect. SAE hasn’t agreed on the methodology for summating electric horsepower, but it’s not $front+$rear=$total. It feels like a 500 HP car when you drive it, not a 700 HP car.

The thing I probably like least is riding on an 100% aluminum frame. It translates noise very differently. If you’ve ever ridden in an all aluminum subway car at high speed like BART in San Francisco you know what I mean.

The car you actually want to buy is a 70D with air suspension and premium seats - it’s stupid quick up to about 70 MPH. If $15k is NBD to you, get the 90D for the extra range and “horsepower”. The P85D insane models are a novelty but I can’t see actually wanting that. It’s not worth paying $50k for a party trick. It

How can you write an entire article about how great this car visually is and then say you’d rather have a BMW 1/2 series, the ugliest car on the road besides the i3? Unless you’re under 5’ 2”, the 3 series is the smallest car you want be driving around in. This TT has great tech and style but most of it is in the 2017

Loss of life from auto accidents in south asian countries is massive, even with their one Lambo in a junkyard.

This is a death trap. You don’t want a car designed before CAD systems. This car is worth $500 tops.

You’re a big horsepower weak brakes kind of guy. That’s ok, just stay clear of everyone else. Pony up for some proper Brembo GT in 410x34 like this car needs.

lmao if you put $98 rotors on a 500 HP 2 ton car.

Heat is a big contributor to the complexity. Again, you really don’t want it to knock at 7500 RPM. If your ECU can figure this out in 50ms instead of 500ms it’s a big difference. Some of the european cars have an advantage where an American car has the simplest/cheapest thing that can possibly work.

The only unforgivable part of these Golfs is they don’t have an appropriate factory brake kit. This should be an option, even it was like $3k. At least a proper 4 piston caliper and 355 x 28 disc up front.

You can extend maintenance intervals however long you like. You will not get top performance. Dyno before and after your 100k maintenance (lol) and there will be a difference in performance.

I guess so. It’s pretty easy to do it on a 190 HP car. It’s a lot harder to execute it on a 450 HP car without blowing it up because you’re searching for greatness.

Sure, but E85 gets 20% worse mileage. In general you can’t feel a horsepower bump unless it’s more than 15%. So if you’re at 300 HP you need about 50 more to notice.

That’s a very light car and “spec” means cheap. The best guys in that field are going to be replacing them once a season.

You have to trim all your maintenance intervals by 30%-50% if you’re adding 100 HP.

BC are not good coilovers. They’re actually the worst ones you can buy. Bilstein are OK but not much better than OEM (they’re better for 20k miles and then they are worse). You want a damper with a bias for rebound. If you’ve got a BMW, Ground Control pieces together some nice kits with a camber plate, an eibach

If you’re making 400-550 HP this won’t work.

Yeah I believe Ford might have used cheap headers to make the Mustang cheap. Doesn’t do much on an M3, S4, C63, etc.

I literally care about as much as whether or not he brought home his leftovers from the Outback, or tossed them out. It’s a fucking focus. It was a shitty car 15 years ago. Now it’s a shitty old car.