Why not just a spec Miata? 

The right buyer for this already has a specific series they want to run it in and a specific reason why they want to run that particular series. Someone who just wants to go racing should just buy a Spec Miata or a Spec Racer Ford. Someone who wants to do track days doesn’t need a full-blown race car.

Corvettes are pretty cheap speed. A c5 Corvette tops out at 175mph. You can get one of those for under $15k. You can get a c6 for $20k that will do 186 without power adders, but the gearing will allow it to do well over 200 if it has the power.

Those are cool, but my understanding is they aren’t really all that effective (at least the stock ones weren’t). I’m not a drag racer, so off the line heat soak isn’t that big of a deal.

You drop the whole engine in as a package. On an assembly line, bolting on a pitch stop is a MUCH cheaper/simpler process compared to having to separately attach a FMIC and bolt up the plumbing.

I drive an STI. But most buyers (even WRX buyers) aren’t savvy on the difference between a TMIC and FMIC. 

The Ascent only makes 10hp less than the WRX. It’s really not that different. 

I doubt it. As my post above notes, it’s cheaper from an assembly/packaging perspective. You just drop the whole assembled engine at once rather than having to connect intercooler plumbing on a chassis-mounted unit. They don’t actually need a scoop for the TMIC (cars like the Ascent use a TMIC fed under the hood).…

BMW’s sales growth basically matched the automotive market growth generally. This monstrosity wasn’t a significant part of it. 

Hood scoops are mostly for top-mount intercoolers. The top-mount makes some functional sense for something like a rally car where a low-slung front mount intercooler is likely to be damaged. Rally racing was the first racing series where street-like vehicles embraced turbocharging and a lot of the earlier turbo cars…

I’m talking replacing only the bulbs in just the tail lights. You don’t really have to worry about “good light projection” for a tail light. You do need an LED-specific lens in headlights.

Engage with what I wrote, not with what you imagine I wrote. I already said I categorically will not purchase a Tesla because of Musk. He can go straight to hell. I don’t need or want his approval.

It’s about $8,000 overpriced. Other companies sell LED headlight conversion kits with lenses (i.e. Holly retrobight) for around $400 a pair. Maybe be charitable and say the custom housings for the rear could fairly add $1,000. But LED-specific lenses aren’t really that necessary for tail lights. You could just as…

I’d rather just have a new V60 Polestar with a full warranty. 

Weird talk coming from a car enthusiast site comment. I do drive on the track, but HPDE is not racing. It’s just driving fast in a safe and sanctioned forum.

Find me a compact sedan EV (no lift kits, no plastic cladding, no SUV-style hatch back) that runs the 1/4 mile in under 12 seconds and costs less than $50k (post tax credits). I’ll wait... 

Curious how much this was rated for or what the expected use case was. Seems like a fairly light duty truck for hauling things that truly need a crane.

In many ways they are still market leaders in the EV space (at least setting aside the Cybertruck). There’s still nothing quite like the Model 3 Performance anywhere else in the market. I can see why someone would want to buy a Tesla setting aside the CEO. 

Minor quibble, but it wasn’t just soldiers who participated in the Nazi crimes. Much of the Holocaust was carried out by local police forces, and plenty of people who weren’t in uniform did things like turn in neighbors for being Jewish/gay/communist/or other class targeted for extermination.

I don’t think it’s asking too much to say you should evaluate any 50 year old car in good condition rather than a barely running rust bucket. Any car that is 20+ years old will only be a joy to drive if it has been well-maintained. I wouldn’t say “most of them” are poorly maintained any more than most vintage cars…