geoffdanielson
Jefe
geoffdanielson

If that’s the case his best option is to only do rebuilds via the Krylon method in the future.

My question is a twofer:

he is a parent and he has never parented. he made his (now ex) wife use her sick days for their kids.

Geoff

Hey! This is filmed at Sandia Motorsports Park, my hometown track outside of Albuquerque. I built some of those tire barriers in the background, and some of my old race tires are in them.

Yep, this always gets the natives going. Soldering is great IF you know EXACTLY what you’re doing. This means trained. Just because you soldered your slot cars together as a kid or your brother in law the plumber showed you how to sweat copper pipe, you are not qualified to make good solid reliable soldered

Wrong. Crimped.

They aren’t. You will mostly find crimps and connectors.

Mr. Collins, I mean no offense, but this article is offensive to anyone who actually knows how to repair a car correctly. Not only is solder in automotive applications not recommended, in cases or certain systems...like airbag....it could be dangerous. Perhaps next time you need to fill space with a technical article

Ok let’s talk race cars. Or just milspec wiring in general go ahead and show me Amphenol and deutsch connectors that are solder based. A properly crimped connector is orders of magnitude stronger than soldering.

That’s not true. Much of the stuff in aerospace is crimped. All the Mil-spec stuff uses ratcheting crimpers, I know, I have a set of of them (and they’re $$$). They also do all kinds of fancy stress relief and vibration damping.

That said, I actually build mil-spec style automotive harnesses and I solder regularly, I

All the NASA training videos I watched were lying to me? Bastards!

Soldering is not a good idea, especially for a novice. Every good technician in the industry uses high quality butt connectors, and the good ones have heat shrink with glue built in. So you can quickly splice wires and seal them, and there’s no risk of damage to the circuit or any other plastic bits around.

Came here to say this. I did motorsports wiring, we didn’t solder. It’s strong, sure, buy way too brittle. High quality crimps with a correct tool and raychem heatsink is the only true way to go.

I’ve also learned the hard way that soldering is not a good solution in high-vibration automotive applications (read: race cars). The problem is not the solder joint itself - that holds just fine. It’s that it creates a stress point in the wire where the solder stopped wicking up the wire, which is where it breaks.

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That’s one of the ugliest splices I’ve ever seen. Might as well just use some crimping connectors if you wanna half-ass it. Here’s the right way to splice:

I don’t think soldering is the right way to do things in automotive modifications and repair. I make wiring repairs to vehicles every day and modify my own cars and my friends stuff outside of work and I literally have never soldered any connections on a car. I only use quality (not the plastic covered autozone ones)

Doing the pennies by volume seems wrong. Completely filling the cargo box with pennies would surely put the truck way over its weight limit right?

Did you check the date codes on the tires to see how old they were? Tread depth means nothing if the tire is too old. I change out tires on my motorhome every 6 years or so whether they look bad or not. I really don’t want a 22.5 tire carrying 6400 pounds each blowing on the highway.

Toro Ultrablower. /Thread.

Toro Ultrablower. /Thread.