VAGCOM isn't a dealer tool, the legit VAS6450B/C tool that the Audi/VW shops use is way more expensive.

Yet stock for stock with the right driver, most of these cars would hold their own or outright annihilate these shitboxes on the track...

Your power assertions are true assuming the 6.2 is N/A, throw some forged internals and induction on the 6.2 though and that won't be the case. Also, the mileage isn't as bad as you're stating, the only times I've averaged less than 13MPG were offroad or towing something >2,000LB.

I've never experienced averages below the teens in my 6.2L Raptor, I'm betting that the EB mileages will be a wash for the most part. Which is fine, considering that it will have more power overall with the EB engine. Its easy to average 15MPG+ when commuting with it @60%hwy, which I generally don't do unless my DD…

Good resale value news for everyone with a 6.2L, there's no replacement for displacement!

Anyone buying a Raptor should not be worried about mileage, nor should they be ruining the suspension with hacks like leveling kits. Long travel kits are the way to go.

The Raptor has had a "Baja Mode" aka Offroad Mode since its inception. The Torsen front diff has also been standard since 2011.

#PoundSign #NailedIt

For comparison sake, this is the average mileage on a 2012 Supercab Raptor with the 6.2L. 60% highway, cruise set at 70MPH on 93oct crappy E10-whatever Ohio fuel.

Don't forget the lack of a throttle plate in diesels = less pumping losses at partial throttle when compared to a gasser.

It's called auto-locking hubs and they aren't engaged all the time either, no parasitic loss. As far as I know, all modern domestic 4x4 vehicles have auto locking hubs. The exception: Jeep Wranglers that are full-time engaged. Fords all use a vacuum-powered IWE system that disengages the front axle any time 4x4 is…

I know, right? Do you think anyone who's driving a loaned vehicle with fuel in it paid for by their employer really drives like your average vehicle owner? Hell to the no; you drive it like a rental, drive it like you stole it!

Got 245,000mi so far on my '04 TDI with all original internals.

Well the only two settings that seem to matter are 5 and 4, the rest might as well be off.

I'd never ever buy a minivan, but I rent the hell outta them on vacations.

I totally get that for constant meshing parts; but some of the oil in hydraulic parts that bleed down like lifters may not work as well in extreme cold, no? Wouldn't it stress various seals and bypass the oil filter as well? Transmissions, both auto and manual seem to hate extreme cold, but they don't have constant…

It sounds like the lube between the clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and the driveshaft slowing things down.

All LCD's are inherently sluggish and glitchy in extreme cold, they do after all contain liquid with polarizing particles.

My '04 Jetta TDI's leather seats take quite a bit of time to heat up, at least 10min.

And, as far as the pollution and fuel waste goes, let's think about this on a larger, systems-level. Sure, if you idle for, say, three minutes, you're burning more fuel and polluting more. But if that three minutes heats up your oil and transmission fluid and prevents wear to your drivetrain, maybe your car will last,…