That’s not as bad, but its still not good. I much prefer BMW’s integration of the sensors where its just a hexagon in the lower grill that is far less obtrusive rather than shoving it in the center of the main grill.

They are shitty for situations around where you need to operate a control without looking at it. Like on a steering wheel for example.

It looks like it’s the radar sensor, and everyone involved in that design decision should be taken out back and shot. That may be the single most jarring thing I’ve ever seen in a car design. Zero attempt to hide it. Couldn’t even paint the grills on the front of it.

It looks like generic car #3. I am 100% sure I could slap a VW or Volvo badge on the front and nobody would even blink. I’m pretty sure I could get away with a Ford or Chevy badge as well, maybe a caddy badge. I’m sure there’s a few more that I’m not thinking of. This is just a generically inoffensive design. It’s not…

It was pretty good for me, I got an ‘18 440i Gran Coupe with 16.5k on the clock for $10k under KBB. From a dealer. Granted that means I probably just paid what the car would be worth in a normal market, but at least I didn’t overpay.

Given the proliferation of SUVs & massive pickups, I think we are already well past the point of driving on roads that were not meant to handle the weight of the average car. I doubt the EV revolution will make that much of a difference.

As far as I understand, in all modern cars the brake pedal is still mechanically operating a hydraulic system to engage the brakes, aside from ABS intervention(which is never going to disable the brakes) I don’t think the car has the ability to not allow a braking event to occur. Which is why I was confused about that…

I’m not understanding how the driver would be required to remove their foot from the brake to stop the unintended acceleration event. Are they stating that the user needed to zero out all pedal input before the event would cease, or are they somehow claiming the brake pedal would be rendered non-functional by this?

I mean technically you can go pick up your BMW at the factory if its made in Spartanburg or Germany. I would assume that removes the transportation fee(at least for the Spartanburg plant). It removes a bunch of fees if you get it in Germany and put enough miles on it before it gets shipped home.

There is also the locking lug removal tool that allows you to remove any locking lug in about the same amount of time as a normal lug. I used one with my impact gun to zip the locking lugs of my friends Jeep after he lost his key.

displacement does not equal HP. Especially when turbos are involved. There are some 2000hp 5.2L V10's rolling around out there in Gallardo’s. It’s all about how much NVH/drivability you are willing to sacrifice on the alter of high HP.

They would be rated for “186+ mph”

I have the same problem. I can *technically* fit my e46 in the garage, but it’s hell to get out of it. Also the garage is a piece of crap and will probably fall down within the next 10 years or so, so I just don’t trust it.

The entire engine sits ahead of the front axle. The output shafts for the front wheels are a few inches behind the flywheel. From a balance standpoint its pretty terrible. I’ve had a few track days with WRX’s in my class and watching them plow wide through the tighter turns because of how much weight is on the front…

PIAA super silicone wipers, replace at the start of winter, use the windshield treatment pouch from one wiper then, reapply the treatment in the spring with the pouch from the other wiper. Repels rain all year. Great visibility even in epic downpours. Will not use anything else.

PIAA super silicone wipers, replace at the start of winter, use the windshield treatment pouch from one wiper then,…

Both the i4 and iNext are scheduled for late 2021, which is about as close to an absolute date that any manufacturer gives you this far out. And while they have announced the i3 will not have a successor, it will remain in production until 2024.

eh, they deserve the momentary panic of my car rolling back an inch or two before driving off.

you don’t have to use the e-brake on hills. If you move fast enough you can get from the brake to the gas while simultaneously releasing the clutch to not roll backwards at all.  The trick is to time it such that your clutch starts to engage while the brakes are still holding the car, then get to the gas fast enough…

That is not even close. When you are backing up a manual, unless you’re going downhill, you are on the clutch and gas only. You are using the gas to keep your revs somewhere around idle-1000rpm and using the clutch to control your speed via engagement pressure. If you are going downhill, you probably aren’t even in…

No doubt it’s still an issue for ICE vehicles, but at least with a gas tank you can plug the leak and still make it home. If you did that to a battery pack at best you are stuck waiting on someone to pull you out, at worst, your vehicle and everything in it just burned to the ground. Also, the size of the skidplate…