If you haven't noticed, grey is the new earth tones everywhere. Restaurants, particularly established restaurants need to change things every once in a while to keep the customers interested and not bored with the establishment. Depicting this as "soul crushing" is the worst form of "look at me" click bait.

The "evolution" scene was used as a hook and it really wasn't that funny and not particularly relevant to the plot. Worse, it's been used in most of the advertising - probably to get a link between Sleeper and Simon - and it's entirely unrepresentative of the movie itself.

Simon is riddled with moments of genius, yet shows only an
intermittent interest in harnessing all that brainy inspiration into a
satisfying narrative