Tell my Escalade that. 403hp, 6000 lbs. = warped rotors. He originals warped at 40k, warranted by the dealer, at 80k they did it again, but I was yeared out of the warranty, so i went aftermarket. NO more issues.
Tell my Escalade that. 403hp, 6000 lbs. = warped rotors. He originals warped at 40k, warranted by the dealer, at 80k they did it again, but I was yeared out of the warranty, so i went aftermarket. NO more issues.
Tell my Escalade that. 403hp, 6000 lbs. = warped rotors. He originals warped at 40k, warranted by the dealer, at 80k they did it again, but I was yeared out of the warranty, so i went aftermarket. NO more issues.
Tommy861, incorrect about the rotors. You get what you pay for. You gonna tell me those ultra spiffo cast iron rotors that Galfer sold me for my GSXR at $550 each, aren’t better than the stockers? Besides much better heat dissipation, they don’t warp like the stockers, and the coefficient of friction is much…
I’m pretty sure they’re a solid axle.
3-9 years at Joliet? You could learn a new trade......
A Datsun truck? An MR2 and RX7? Come on, classic? They weren’t good when they were new. I stuffed a 350 Chevy LT1 in a Datsun Truck because I thought would be cool. I guess to someone in high school it was. Not any more. I have no doubt it rusted into the ground and will never be heard from again, as it should be.
Do NOT show me any abused animals, I’ll throw a brick through your window....
I do too. I cut the trans service in half for my Escalade (50k instead of 100k), because a new 6-speed auto trans is $4800. Clean trans fluid and motor oil is cheap insurance.
Hey, they’re awesome, right up until the first monsoons moisture event after installation, and you’re on a first date, turn them on, and both fall off and get lost in the traffic, and you have to drive 50 miles in the dark night and driving rain, with no wipers.
I know some of 510 guys, those things sure aren’t $300 anymore. The wagons aren’t independent though, are they?
I always wondered why I saw those guy’s cars that didn’t have a dash, or door panels on them, for long periods of time. It’s “drifter chic”.
It’s because I’m..........brown......
Actually, it’s important for the correct geometry through the suspension travel (Race Team Machinist here). You gotta check these things, every little advantage, you know.
That guy is protecting our yutes.
Remember the guy that rebuilt his old LandCruiser, to the ridiculous tune of some $160,000+? Don’t be that guy.
But that 650 hp 6.2, comes stock from GM in a car with 4 doors, and a warranty. Sure, that 3.5 V6 with 550hp is impressive, but my buddy had a VW bug that ran 8.60s@160, but would blow that right rear cylinder at nearly every race weekend he went to. Does that 550hp V6 have the ability to drive across the country…
I have to agree with ole ‘55 for the most part. I’ve done a few hot rods myself, fixed or worked on others projects, racebikes, race cars, etc., (I’m a machinist by trade and things with wheels that go fast is my hobby) in my estimation, for every engine swap/tuner car/hot rod/street rod/custom/rat rod, that is done…
What’s wrong with gassers from the 60s? Or fuel altereds?
Do they make camber adjustment plates for those (I used to make them for 510s)?
Looking at the 8 degrees of negative rear camber and the attendant <1000 mile tire life, I’d make the assumption that it would definitely need a looksee underneath to see if anything has been “stance-itized”, like with a cutting torch or something hack going on.