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It does work. Not as effective as wipers, of course. But it’s better than nothing in an emergency.

Use Ajax (abrasive fine sink cleaning dust) down the intake to help the rings on your new engine bed in faster.

Will Wal-Mart stock a “Piece-O-Shit Honda”? (Employee of the Month.)

But you built the Cruze, at least? I head similar stories from Ford employees regarding plans to build the the Focus and Kuga. Ford management killed them off.

Much as I love these things, having an Auto in one is a crime that should be punishable by flogging. CP!

You are missing two factors here. Quality control and reliability. Neither is something the Wrangler is famous for! If Ford can pull off a good-looking body-on-frame Bronco that doesn’t regularly stop for no reason and have bits of trim falling off in six months, then they will have a winner.

They sold quite a lot of these in Australia. Japan doesn’t have to be your only parts source, for anyone who buys it.

Good luck finding anything this old for $1k with a recent Shaken!

Similar story, but a Bay not a splittie. The dude was looking for a sub-AU$1k Bus to use on the Shitbox Rally. He found two Bays in a paddock. The farmer says “If you can drive one out, you can have it for $400.” Challenge accepted. Bits were swapped between the two and it drove out. A very scary rally car was

Congratulations to this douche.

The taxes aren’t that high and the exchange rate not that bad. We are simply ripped off on many cars. It’s not unusual for cars that retail for circa $100kAU in England to retail circa $250kAU here. Yet the car is the same except for the all-important Compliance Plate.

Unfortunately modern diesels have as many sensors, ECU’s etc as any petrol motor. Prices for Defenders have gone silly in Australia since they stopped making them! I want a Defender 90 but I would have to stump up $20K plus for a knackered 5 cyl Diesel with 300,000km on it or $50k plus for the last 2.2 Ford diesel

Minis (and Mokes) are all imperial, so you carry a 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 at all times. That will fix 90% of your problems at the roadside. Access is tight on some parts, but it’s okay when you learn the tricks. You can change the clutch in about 1-2 hours without removing the engine or transmission. It’s right there

Yeah, I guess I love punishing myself. My Land Rover is a 2007 Freelander 2 - it’s what you would call a LR2. It’s a UK spec Diesel manual that ended up migrating to Australia, so it’s a bit of an oddball. Despite having 119,000 miles on it, so far it’s been 100% reliable and I am very happy with it. However, I am

Try driving a Moke. In a Mini at least you have some metal between you and a semi’s lug nuts. In the Moke you have nothing but canvas or air.

I daily drove one for eight years. If well maintained aand driven respectfully they can be reliable. Any breakdowns are usually simple to solve. The main reason I gave up on DD’ing it was it was vandalized. Now I confine the Mini and Moke to weekend use. My DD is a nice reliable Land Rover. Errr...

Having owned one of these (in Australia) and hated it, I can only go Crack Pipe. The non-Turbo diesel was the slowest thing on earth! Seriously, an 850cc Mini royally Mini kicked it’s butt. A snail on Ritalin could overtake you. The plastics melted in the Aussie sun (that’s probably why this one has a replacement

I hate this whole fake patina bullshit! The point of patina is perserving an old car “as found”. Definitely not making a newish car look like someone smeared shit all over it. Anyone with a car made after 1990 with “patina” is a wanker. Period.

My 74 Super Beetle stared becoming smokey and a little rattly just after I moved from the city to a country area in December last year. Then it dropped a valve as I was driving up a steep hill while overtaking a truck. It was away so long having an engine rebuild (stock 1600DP) that I bought a Land Rover. I’ve only