C’mon, haven’t you ever smelled something funky and then shoved it under someone else’s nose and commanded “here, smell this”?
C’mon, haven’t you ever smelled something funky and then shoved it under someone else’s nose and commanded “here, smell this”?
What ever happened to Jimmy in portfolio management?
In cases like this, one must remove the head or destroy the brain.
I love Amazon reviews ...
A Chevy Sonic wasn’t worth $7,300 new on the showroom floor. CP
Do you know much about old BMW’s? This is from a time before all of the unreliable complex electricals of the late 90's and 00's. This is a simple, unintelligent vehicle. It will run for a long time without any work that requires a dealership computer
“Lose” is the verb you’re looking for.
If $53000 for a truck is what’s on the table here, I’m going with a Ford Raptor for my apocalyptic needs.
Does anyone have an explanation for how polishing aluminum weakens it?
Visible negative camber on anything but a race car or hard core track car is automatic CP.
The subwoofer, questionable wheels and nutso camber kill it for me. Though all are fixable to anyone with eyes and taste.
In my area, 170k miles, ripped seats, shitty bass and hacked electrical, and junk suspension would equal about half what he’s asking.
For what it’s worth, I happen to know this car and it was built by the owner and professionally at that. He’s a master mechanic at a performance Subaru shop in the northeast and one of the best that I know. That said, I DO think the price is too steep.
I take it you’ve never negotiated for anything in writing. It’s more than he should or will end up with—probably more than he actually wants—but it’s also a demand that might be supported by the law, and thus a useful starting place.
I’m starting to think that just “making things right” for the customer when incidences such as this occur is not enough. Because this shit keeps happening.
Agreed. The “low” price doesn’t turn me off…simply the knowledge that the car will absolutely have random little problems even under warranty AND knowing that $20k is nowhere near the bottom for this thing as far as the depreciation curve goes. Come back in 12 months and they’ll probably be selling for $11k.
You should also let your car cool down after any drive more than 7.35 miles. Let it idle for 15 minutes, then turn the engine off, but leave the key on for another 6-10 minutes (you should also have the interior blower fan going at this point, too - it'll speed up the process). After that, you can exit the car and rub…
I am an ASE Master technician, a powertrain calibration engineer, and I also hold a US patent in evaporative emissions testing equipment.