ashvaild1
iceman
ashvaild1

What are you even trying to argue?

That the Camaro is a better racecar?

If you are building a racecar, the parts lists are unlimited and so is the budget. So whomever brings more money will be faster.

But these are both street cars.

And as street cars, they’re very different.

Sorta like maintaining a 10 year old S Class / 7 Series / A8

As the old adage goes, “A boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money”

Change boat with ship and then replace money with .0001% of DoD spending and you’re probably close.

Imagine how many bottles of Febreze they go through.

It’s hard to see when your head is in this position.

Of course they were going for the cat. The platinum group metals in it are gold for dogs!

What do you know?!? Ricky Bobby was actually telling the truth!

Silly dogs, that car doesn’t have a wishbone suspension!

I don’t think that’s an accurate interpretation of the dyno chart. Peak torque is 3600, peak power is at around 5300, and it drops by about 50 hp between 5300 and 6500 RPM redline. Shifting at peak torque isn’t the correct way to go fast. Your ideal powerband is between peak torque and peak horsepower. So in the case

Wow!

The jaw dropper from the dyno sheet is NOT max HP and TQ. It’s how quickly the HP and TQ come on. Compare the numbers at 3000 RPM. Pre-tune it’s 200/240, post tune 330/430. That will pucker your butt dyno into a black hole. Edit: Dang it. MF called out the same thing in his instagram post. He’s a really smart guy.

“Marginally” faster? The RS does 0-60 about a second faster than the GTI.

That seems to be the ecoboost way. The standard ford ecu programming really tunes to balance HP and torque at the expense of torque (justifiably so, since the cars are light and just spin the front tires). Both the focus and the fiesta with just a filter and tune gain a little HP and a LOT of torque.

Rissesesesssesssssesess.

Pfft, people do that with STOCK Rseses

Thanks for sharing - Some notes on my dyno experience not mentioned in the article:

Not really, there are so many variables. You can’t really compare 2 different cars on 2 different dynos. That’s why you’ll see all sorts of HP ranges from different people. Really the point of strapping your car on a dyno should be to get a baseline, and use the same one to see how you progress as you mod (like the

Mustang dynos tend to be more conservative than other brands and calibrations. As it is, you can’t really compare two cars across dynos, the external conditions and software differences are too great...for before/after, though, they’re great.

Obviously you’re the only one that feels that way.

Wrong. I can sum up the only reason there needs to be to buy a manual in one word. Fun.