Not to mention the fuel that’s being wasted for them to accelerate for inclines vs gaining momentum by speeding from and envrionmental standpoint.

That’s a whole different demographic.

Yes, and you’re still liable for them.

This x1000! I debadged my old neon when I was in high school and took the Subaru lettering off of my 02 WRX (Left the rest of the badging) and I used a hair dryer and one of the cards you get for credit offers in the mail and have never had an issue. Heat is your friend and a hairdryer is highly unlikely to bugger up…

I agree, I didn’t mean to sound like an alarmist which I may have. It’s more of a long-term thing and not something that’ll happen tomorrow.

The issue isn’t play between the spacer and hub since either type when done properly should have no play. It really depends on how beefy the bearings are and the factory geometry. I’m glad you understand that this isn’t an “OMG YOUR BEARINGS ARE GONNA FAIL TOMORROW!” deal cause it’s not, its one of those things when…

I missed that, in that particular example it shouldn’t matter. If the face of the wheel remains the same distance from the bearing then it should be a non-issue.

Hub-centric meaning it centers on the hub and not the studs right? That doesn’t matter in this scenario though. The difference between stud-centric (bud stud on semis) or hub-centric is whether or not the studs or the hub itself is taking the load. The bearing still gets it with either setup.

You’re correct but usually if you’re adding spacers it’s to add a wider wheel, not just to accomidate a different wheel. So yes the effective offset is the same but you’ve moved the face of the wheel farther away from the bearing and made the “lever” longer to apply more force to the wheel bearings.

Wheel bearings, with spacers you’re extending the hub out further and adding stress to the wheel bearings. You’ve essentially added a longer lever to the wheel bearing and added a lot more stress to them by doing so.