A family member has a TR250, I can definitely relate. My ‘79 RX-7 felt like a limo in comparison, even cruising at 4000 RPM.  The Triumph really does feel like riding in a tin can that’s falling apart as you go down the road, despite it being mostly restored.

I sold my ‘79 a few months ago (it needed paint, and that costs more than buying one that doesn’t need paint). Still tempted to buy another one. As far as ‘old cars’ go, it’s hard to beat a first gen RX-7. They’re fun, reliable (really), halfway decent on fuel (~20MPG no matter how you drive), and actually pretty…

There are a few of them around, but yes, not many. They’re a huge pain to maintain and if you want a 3-rotor, it’s arguably easier to import the engine and drop it in an RX-7 (well, it was before RX-7s started selling for $50k).

Both the Miata and the BRZ/86 have a greater than 50% take rate on manuals.

The biggest cause of RX-8 engine failure is exhaust blocked by a failing catalytic converter (which was typically ruined by failing ignition). I’m not sure if piston engines are as badly affected, but in at least that case, your choices are risking your (otherwise stock) engine or removing the cat.

You have to know a car really well to effectively evaluate a laundry list of mods. It makes buying any commonly tuned car difficult, since you aren’t generally that far ‘into the weeds’ before you actually own one.

Long HDMI cable.  Problem solved.

PC almost exclusively lately. Been meaning to buy a console but there are basically zero exclusives anymore so haven’t bothered. The older games I mention were all on a PS3.

The bigger problem being you can get yourself a whole lot of used flat 6 Cayman for less.

Anywhere other than LA and NYC, I think.

Generally people talking about affordable used cars are not talking 1-3 years, they’re talking 5-10. 1-3, you’re paying new car prices. 5-10, you’re paying half that or less, and can still find cosmetically new cars with well under 50,000 miles.

Three years old is basically new, as far as I’m concerned. When looking at used cars, start at five years old and cap at about ten. In that range, you can get a car with 30k-60k on it for 50% or better off the new price. It is, admittedly, a little harder to find lower mileage examples, but once you do, it’s fundamenta…

While the physics are crap, racing in GTAV does this reasonably well. Midnight club was better, but I think that series is dead.

Play it on PC.

It’s not the $200 one time fine that’s the problem, it’s the $2000+ you’ll pay slowly over the next five years of insurance until the ticket goes off your record.

I’ve always found the parallel parking part of driving tests odd. I’ve never once needed to parallel park in more than ten years of driving. (I live in a relatively large city, but it’s not anywhere near the size of NY).

There are already a fair number of rotary MGs out there, so yes.

Actual printed and bound manuals, I can almost see that.  People pay for old books.  But this isn’t even a book, it’s just a three ring binder full of pages you could print yourself for a few dollars.

Depends. If you plan to keep the car for ten or twenty years, the difference between still being worth something and being worth little more than scrap value is somewhat more important than the depreciation over the first two or three years.

Only from new, though. A ten to twenty year old BMW (or any other luxury brand) will hold more of it’s value than a ten to twenty year old Kia.