aasearles
AAsearles
aasearles

Young people vote? Okay boomer.

That’s all correct, but it’s questionable when the tags are being used to track drivers for a “just in case” scenario of whatever it happens to be. Do I care personally? No, because I’m not hiding from anyone, but in concept it might violate our 4th amendment rights. Driving is not a right, but when your front plates

Google: ALPR
Most states practice it, some store the data up to 3 years.

This is the real reason for the front plate requirement these days: ALPR Surprised more people reading here aren’t aware of it.

Brands and product names don’t need to make sense to serve their purpose, and they don’t need to be explained. If the product is strong, the name becomes iconic, no one questions it, people buy it. Consider: CobraJet, Ram-Rod, Tornado, Coyote, and Iron Duke for context.

Preach, brother. My rule: fun car = OHV V8, RWD, practical car: = OHC I-4, FWD, Japanese. I can beat the living snot out of my LS2 every time I drive it, and it wants more. I’m at 90k miles, still on the original clutch. It doesn’t burn or leak a drop of oil. Torque for days. 6.5k RPM isn’t stratospheric, but the exhau

I race. After 8 years of LeMons and ChumpCar, I’ve seen other teams cheat, and we’ve not always played by the book, but at least in endurance events cheating isn’t the surefire way to produce wins. The key is strategy (including cheating), reliability, and good driving. If we divide those equally into 3rds (for sake

To everyone paranoid about resting a hand on the shifter, do you cringe at the thought of a weighted shift knob? Some knobs like TWM are a sold pound of steel. Weighted my hand on a postal scale - it’s under 2 lb of force using elbow as a fulcrum. I don’t typically rest my hand on the shifter, but I did install a

I drove a ‘98 Buick Riviera with the 3800 supercharged for 15 years and 281k mi, for similar reasons. It was my do-anything car, and it did them amazingly well: daily commutes, 2000 mile road trips, 39 MPG hypermiling runs, FW burnouts, 13.9 sec 1/4 miles, autocross (in 1st gear only), road course duty, hauling 3500

Good read! Critique: in an era where so many engines are supercharged/turbocharged, you avoided touching this subject (you only acknowledged static compression). To make this article complete, how about a section (or part II) on forced induction, covering effective compression. From there, we could examine why

I play this game a bit differently. Here are the rules:

1) Buy cars that I can afford to insure with liability insurance. Even with a speeding ticket every couple years, I pay roughly half what this guy does to ensure two cars. Uninsured motorist coverage is another smart option if concerned about deadbeat/illegal

True statement. At least GTO’s used parts market is strong at the moment. It seems one is put into a ditch at least every week or so.

The GTO as well... and everyone complained it didn’t look enough like the muscle car. Everyone but me - so I bought one. Still happy looking at it!

A manual 800HP Mark VIII?!! This is incredible. Very nicely done. Also, appreciate the shout-out to the big block Olds era. I have a ‘70 Olds 98 Holiday Coupe with 455cid - can attest to the immense torque. Unfortunately RPM is limited to about 5k, but still fun for stop lights and cruising.

Oh, the irony in this statement. If only you guys knew...

There is some benefit to changing oil sooner than later, particularly with older engines. While the oil itself may last 5k, 10k, or 20k in a perfect world, sometimes there is some fault (not the oil’s) that decreases the oil life expectancy. Changing the oil sooner prevents damage that would otherwise occur in the

“These numbers sound unreal but they’re not.”

By this does he mean the 10,000 N-m (7376 lb-ft) wheel torque? Or was this a mix up between twist specs for semi and roadster?

I REALLY want 10k torque to be true, but REALLY??

I just spit out my coffee.

“My biggest fire concern, though—even more so than a rusty fuel line or electrical gremlins—is transmission fluid, which is renowned for bursting into flames if it hits a hot surface like an exhaust manifold. I’m always worried that I’ll overfill my transmission, and ATF will spew out of my dipstick tube and onto my

The main A/F mixture IS ignited by compression, because it’s insensitive to spark ignition. The secondary (spark assisted) mixture creates the “fireball”, which compresses the main mixture in chain reaction, initiating the combustion. It’s not a flame propagation from the fireball to the main mixture; it’s the