You think an OEM iFS is anything close to what a KOH rig is running? I can give you a hint, the answer will be no.
You think an OEM iFS is anything close to what a KOH rig is running? I can give you a hint, the answer will be no.
You aren’t kidding there. The good news is that most sfa vehicles weren’t that great for flex up front anyway since they were mostly radius arm types for stability and load. The only one that wasn’t is still with us. Truthfully a well engineered independent front will flex almost as much as a radius arm solid. I mean…
There’s a difference between theory and production feasibility.
In theory, yes, an IFS setup should indeed trounce a solid-axle design in every way. But in practice, you’ve got to consider dynamics, overall cost and packaging space—and after you’ve done that, you wind up with a production vehicle that just doesn’t…
So played and configured a Sahara and Rubicon about the same way and got $47K for Sahara and $50K for the Rubicon. argh, that is pricey. my 2012 JKU sport S was $29k
Trust me, after my LJ factory locker blew up and took out my rear diff I never thought I’d go through that again, but this time I’d at least have a warranty.
“racism rally”
We must be looking at two different videos. Kindly remove the stick from your ass and move on. Some of us have drunk people getting mildly injured to watch.
Does it though? I’m not sure I like the whole “players that dump 100s of hours get advantages” thing. People that play the game orders of magnitude greater than average already have a huge advantage in being better practiced.
I’m firmly in the “just charge me $100 for a full-featured AAA game then” if it’s simply a matter of making up development costs.
I have a hard time giving EA the benefit of the doubt though. I’m more inclined to believe that’s just an excuse and they really just want to nickel-and-dime as much as they can get away…
It’s probably too late to ask, but FCA please, for the love of all that is holy, let us order a stripped down, mostly analog truck with the diesel? You know - manual windows and locks, no touch screens, big dials...simple, old school.
Here’s the #1 reason. On a solid axle vehicle, as one wheel is pushed up, the other is pushed down onto the ground harder, providing more traction. On a IFS vehicle as one wheel is pushed up, the other is lifted, reducing traction.
Your halfshaft angles can only be so steep before their lifespans are significantly reduced. You don’t have to worry about that with a solid axle—just take care of your propshaft angle by tipping up the diff pinion (with shims), and/or installing a double-cardan propshaft, and all is well.
Its simple mechanics, when you tie both wheels together you don’t need as much force to move a wheel through its travel as it only has to overcome the spring rate for one side minus an opposing force from the other side which is reacting. This is bad for on road performance, but off road where you want maximum wheel…
The left jab when he comes back for round two was my favorite. I mean, the aggressor is wearing his Sunday Finest punch-me face, leads with his chin, and is clearly anticipating the right.... and then wham, the left puts him on his heels again.
‘Focus on the process’, now that’s a philosophy for life that we can all benefit from.
Depends on where you’re located.
THE JL WRANGLER IS AN ABOMINATION AND NOT AS GOOD AS THE JK WHICH WAS AN ABOMINATION AND WAS NOT AS GOOD AS THE TJ WHICH WAS AN ABOMINATION AND NOT AS GOOD AS THE YJ WHICH WAS JUST WRONG AND NOT AS GOOD AS THE CJ7 WHICH WAS NOT AS GOOD AND HAD BIGGER DOOR OPENINGS THAN THE CJ5 WHICH WAS TERRIBLE AND NOT AS RELIABLE…
I think it depends greatly on the type of wheeling you do. I am moving from 33 x 12.5 to 35 x 12.5 with my new set of Dana 44's and beadlockers. I don’t do mud, it doesn’t snow much at all here so most of my fun wheeling is rock crawling where I’m betting fatter is better than skinny. That said, it would be fun and…