DrStrangegun
Dr. Strangegun
DrStrangegun

No real issues with them if they’re done right. Trouble is, they’re hard to do right by hand with generic power tools, and if they’re really cheap, they don’t drill worth a damn and slip around/mar/dent the sheet when you push and end up stripping them like everyone else that pushes.

So you get a little compressor inefficiency at transonic speeds... it’s not a sustained supersonic flight, it’s an uncontrolled dive. The engines don’t need to be at maximum thrust, just providing enough to overcome the drag involved minus the aid of gravity.

Boeing at that time still had a couple incidents fresh in mind of pilots hot dogging their new types and damaging or crashing them. A pilot ripping three engine pylons off a new 707 comes to mind here... Boeing probably didn’t want to give extra ammo to the “let’s see what she can really do” crowd.

Given the damage

Instant oil change places are for vehicles that will present no surprises and require no special work. If it fits “in the script” for the staff training, it’s perfect, use them.

If your car departs from expectations, you can expect problems.

Heh, could have painted that on the roof over the driver’s seat... “Trucker whoah up, I only have 49 horsepower!”

Yes.

Hah, that last point... had a mechanical issue once and needed to go get a part, so I borrowed my mother’s car, a 1989 crown vic.

Fired up, set down the driveway, got almost to the end and without thinking about it my left foot found the edge of that gigantic brake pedal and drove it to the floor. Epithets were

Been there with “trainees”. Few people ever reference that one key thing... don’t ever take your foot off the gas, at least not completely. If you can let it hang in the same RPM, it’ll still nudge you around but it’s a lot easier for the car to slow the engine than it is for the car to yank the engine up from idle.

You’ll be fine. Couple exercises make it easy.
1 - Just sit in neutral after it’s warmed up, and touch the throttle to rev to 1250, 1500, back down to 1250, or whatever numbers feel comfortable. You’re learning the fine touch needed to keep the revs up without giving it the beans all the time.
2 - with the parking

Visibly wrong differential.

Don’t know where the hell you’re getting your school buses from, but that isn’t how most of them are put together. The cabin is basically a sheet steel tube that there are a ridiculous number of design constraints on to reduce/eliminate joints that can open up on impact, and they’re stiff enough to get knocked off the

In 1950 that was only slightly less than reasonable.

They need to “bullnose” this thing, bring the headlights straight out forward flush with the grille and get that frunk large enough for a truly big bag.

Where were the police, exactly?

I think they managed to make it BSIV emissions compliant without DPF and soot filters, which if true is a goddamned feat even if it does cut the power available.

Don’t be confused, the OG post ‘long section’ is the long coil above the straight section. 

I predict the next fashionable ‘update’ to window technology is a knob and servo. The knob could easily be fashioned to look like an old window winder as well... basically, the window follows the position of a knob that has detents at the closed and open position (approx 120-150 degrees apart) for positive action openi

My ultimate solution with that car was to just go with carbon pads on regular rotors and deal with the dust. Brakes were so easy to do that having half the life of a normal brake pad wasn’t a big deal, and the composition was fairly easy on the rotor surface itself.

If I were doing it over today I’d have gotten the

Ford used to like running higher pressure on smaller rotors way back in the day, I guess old habits are hard to break. My ‘84 Tbird at ~3500lb had 10" vented discs, and not really any trouble locking the 225/60-15 fronts up. I guess it was cheaper and maybe modulated a little easier, but they would absolutely fool you

LAWRENCE: