tylerfawkes
Ty-F
tylerfawkes

we don’t get a lot of snow, but we get ice on a regular basis. Starting out in Eco mode smooths out the torque. It’s really about like driving any other FWD automatic in the same conditions. Eco mode with ‘B’raking mode engaged gets you away from stop signs & traffic lights just like starting out in 2nd gear. I’ve

I’ve been driving Nissan Leafs since the 2011 model. I lease. I’ve never turned one in that lost any charge capacity at all.  I don’t know about other vehicles, but I know several other Leaf folks who are friends of mine. No one I know has had any battery issues at 3 years old. If an EV is only 3 years old and already

All current fuel pump nozzels fit all cars. All charging station plugs should work the same way. Battery packs, like gas tanks are custom built to each vehicle type, model, etc. However, the connectors for all battery packs really should be standardized to work one way. Also, current battery packs, even Tesla

30-45 minutes isn’t really a big deal since it’s rarely done. Most EVs do 90+% of their driving on their nightly charge and hardly ever need to ‘charge-out’. Add to that it’s something you plan for during a meal or other activity. It used to be sitting in the car waiting to charge was the norm. Now the infrastructure

The connections for both batteries and charging stations need to be standardized. A standard procedure to easily swap a battery pack at the end of it’s useful life span is a great idea. However, there’s no way interchanging batteries will ever actually work in day-to-day, real world conditions. I don’t know why people

I agree EV driving with PlugShare is much better and it should be standard issue. Unfortunately, the ‘EV Expert’ at my local Nissan dealership had never heard of it. He drives a Titan.

I don’t know about other cars, and I live in the Nashville TN area, so we don’t get Dakota winters, but here is what I can tell you about the Leaf. The early models (2011-2012) were awful in cold weather. We’ve had a 2011, a 2013-SV, a 2015-SL and now a 2016-SL. My 2011 could lose 60% of it’s range below 20 degrees.

The 2011 & 2012 Nissan Leaf models had a max usable range of 65 miles. In 2013 the usable range jumped to 76 miles. In 2015 the range was easily 80. I know, I drove a 2011 for 2 years, a 2014 for a year and a 2015 for a year. My 2016 with the 30 kWh battery is a 100 mile range car. I know a bunch of Leaf folks

We’ve been driving a Nissan Leaf as our only car since February 2015. I think one of the biggest misconceptions ICE drivers have about EVs is somehow they aren’t used like a ‘real car’. Obviously, 87%-90% that’s completely wrong. So what about the rest of the time? Doesn’t everyone know how quickly and easily you can