Those CV carbs are not too hard to rebuild. The problem is that you had to pull them from a GS450 - the worst airbox install ever.
Those CV carbs are not too hard to rebuild. The problem is that you had to pull them from a GS450 - the worst airbox install ever.
I’d put the electrical service at the top of your list. Often garages are wired only to power some lighting and an opener. If you plan to operate more robust tools, re-wiring a garage to add more circuits may take a lot of planning and money, depending on where the garage sits in relation to the home’s main panel,…
If you just need heat, use a heat gun ($20). Faster than a hairdryer, and better for your marriage., relationship status, etc.
Worm-drive saws do cost more, but they will pretty much last forever. With a good blade, a worm saw will blast through almost anything, hardwoods, plywood soaked in release agents, treated lumber, etc.
Did you really type "in airquotes" instead of using the unbridled power of a keyboard??
Agreed. A trim guy might use this, but he/she would not need so much clamp storage. If you just want to organize these things to roll around the shop, then use a much bigger compressor, and rig up a network of air hoses and connections (like along ceiling joists, etc.). Then use a cart like this to move clamps,…
People still try to VIN-swap classic Minis from the 80s. Sometimes they want to pass a plain 70's Mini off as a Mk1 Cooper S. Other people put old VINs from the 60's/70's on Minis from the 80's/90's to account for emissions problems. In many states, classic/antique cars don't need to satisfy emission standards, or…
Most basic home electrical is pretty straightforward, but I'd huddle with the electrician before you DIY the rough-in. He (or she) can tell you about Code details, and (most importantly) confirm that he/she will pick up the project to finish it. It would suck to do a bunch of rough-in only to have an electrician…
Some more items for the kit:
For a garage, I like to keep some washing soda around for oil, fuel and other spills. Not actually a desiccant, but it breaks down the grease/oil can be scrubbed with a broom, and then rinsed and swept away. Since I also use it for soda blasting, there's always a couple boxes of the stuff at hand.
This is a pretty good round-up of finishes. My favorite "work-a-day" finish for pieces that need to retain the look of the wood (i.e., not stained) and/or the look is irrelevant (shop furniture, etc.) is cheap, home-brewed wiping varnish.
The last-gen Prelude took a pretty nice-looking coupe, went slightly retro to it's older styling, but didn't go back to flip-top lights. So the front end looked like a face missing its eyelids
Worm Saws > Sidewinders. A good wormdrive will last forever and cut through pretty much anything.
Portable sanders are neat, and a random orbital is probably the best starting point for general utility. Second most useful sanding tool IMO is one of these:
Once you've decided to include glue in the joint, then who cares if you include screws to secure it while the joint cures? Provided you are not worried about appearance — i.e. the screw heads showing — then screws are better for this than brads. Brad-tacking will keep the piece in place laterally, but they don't…
Rotary tools are worth spending some money, because a good one will last for years and be something you reach for all the time to deal with random detail items. I had at Dremel cordess that gave me a solid ten-year run before the battery petered out. So when I replaced it, I went all-in on another 12v cordless…
The EZ Lock is the best thing Dremel has done in years. IF you work with metal, those cutoff discs can wear out quickly. Fiddling with the tiny screw-top mandrel sucks. I also use the EZ Lock with their polishing set, which makes moving up and down the different grades of buffers much faster.
Not as cool as this bus
Not as cool as this bus