The key thing to understand here is that if you're a twenty-something, single dude with no kids who writes for the AV Club, this show probably isn't for you. It's clear to me, from reading your review, that you just don't get the context for the humor.

I've been calling Norton's turn as Bruce Banner "Smoochy Hulk" since I first saw it. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it is what it is.