This will probably get me eviscerated here, but my 2002 Miata LS.

Depends on the quality of the wrench. If it was a cheap/crap cast and has air bubbles in the cast, the air bubbles contain moisture, will expand and will cause a ker-pow when you bridge the terminals with them. Source: Had a professor in college demonstrate with a bad steel casting he made for just such an occasion.

The cake is a lie.

There is a major difference between street racing (fucking stupid, can kill people, irresponsible and the reason those of us with half a brain have to struggle to get parts for our dedicated track cars) and the ‘illegal racing’ these guys do, off the streets, otherwise responsibly. Watch the gorram documentary you…

It saddens me I have but one star to give. Take it, you glorious bastard.

Engine reliability is great. Works wonders for quite some time.

Depends on your transmission/diff.

Given that I purchased my ‘02 Camaro Z28 from the showroom floor with the full intention of putting a set of headers and a cam in place after its break-in period? Bullshit on your first paragraph.

Those Chinese ebay kits will also run a wastegate that fails closed instead of open causing an overboost situation and other catastrophic failures. (I was a cheap, stupid teenager once, installed it, kaboom. Head separated from the block before I could get out of throttle.) The point is, I was not judging it based on…

No, no it’s not. The $1500 kit is not complete as is. To get it complete, you’re talking another 500-900. I was /just/ at the site. This isn’t even a matter of opinion. You. Are. Wrong.

The 1.4 MultiAir turbo is the same used in the Fiat 500 Abarth, so for that power curve, just look up the 500 Abarth. As for the Miata’s, it’s identical to the 2.0 in the 2012+ Mazda 3.

That’s not a full kit. That’s the “custom” kit you get if you don’t need certain things like piping or oiling lines and the like. Way to cherry-pick. Fact checking.

Uhm, a quick cursory glance at FM’s website says the cheapest full (non-reduced) NB Voodoo II kit is $2,345. So, just a small amount of fact checking there.

45 pounds, and sure you do. That’s why I drive a Fiero, Miata, MR2 Spyder and an ‘02 Camaro Z28.

5 horsepower, but 36 extra torques. With a much flatter, longer 100% torque plateau compared to the short NA peaks. Smoother power delivery with more of it for longer? And a short tune away from 200/200? Or a tune and intercooler away from 220/240? I know which I’m looking at.

Deep end? Nah. Just pointing out reality. An engine with a lack of torque and a 1200 RPM powerband does not a good source of locomotion for a sports car make. By the time you get into power, you have to shift. This is why even Honda themselves moved to a turbocharged engine with more low-end grunt in the ‘16 Civic Si.…

There’s a problem with that powerband. It’s only 1200 RPM long. The L67 starts torque at 3600 and holds through 6,000. And once again, reliability. L67 is more or less bulletproof. It isn’t being run at the maximums of its thermal efficiency, making its duty cycle twice to three times as long as the Honda motor. Not…

250 horse on 87 octane but with less than 200 ft-lbs of torque. Whereas the 3800 will do 260+ ft-lbs. Injectors and a pulley change away from 300/300 hp/tq.

To be fair, it’s not just the deeply uncompetitive nature of the Dart keeping people away from it. Anecdotally, my roommate purchased a Dart new from the showroom floor. 1.4 MultiAir. He keeps a perfect maintenance track record. And yet let me list the things that have needed to be replaced in the first 35,000 miles:

No, no I didn’t. Waste is exactly that, wasted potential energy. The more waste a particular type of reaction produces, the less efficient it is. Physics.