“we know EVs never hit the full projection on any cycle.”

Ok that’s fair... But there are a lot of non Tesla EV drivers out there. When I go to EV events like “National Drive Electric” there’s always at least a couple DIY EV builds there. While the Tesla demographic is true there are a lot of EV owners who aren’t afraid of a wrench.

“They are a uniquely un-mechanically inclined group in my experience.”

Those things aren’t even necessarily different when looking at 120v vs 240v wiring.

The point that you’re not grasping is that since each wire carry’s 120v you’d have to be extra special fast to somehow manage to grab both 120v lines at once. It’s very very unlikely that someone could manage to do that. And even in that case as long as the person is grounded, it’s not even a full 240v shock because…

Homes have required a main breaker or some other form of “main shutoff” for years. If there’s not a main breaker in your box then there’s one upstream from it somewhere. Mine is on the power pole at the edge of my property. You don’t need your power company to shut it off for you.

Your answer tends to suggest you are less capable than you say, since the most basic premise of the North American 240v system being that no single wire ever carries 240v.

In North America: Household 240v service does not have any single line carrying 240v. 240v is achieved by taking two 120v lines that are 180 degrees…

Your answer tends to suggest you are less capable than you say, since the most basic premise of the North American 240v system being that no single wire ever carries 240v.

What's the name of the company?

No, his response is correct. Yes you must give them an amount but it’s a *maximum* amount to pre-authorize on your card. If you tell them $100 and you only pump $75, you only get charged $75.

They are asking for the upper limit. Basically the amount to pre-authorize on your card. But if you pump less than the amount you give them only the amount you pump actually gets charged to your card.

You’re quite full of misinformation aren’t you:

Nothing you’ve written is true.

It’s a good thing we don’t have to rely on your personal estimates. You forgot about the serpentine and timings belts, alternator, coolant hoses, engine air filter, EGR valve... If it’s a turbo-charged ICE you’ve also got charged air hoses, probably an intercooler... Then you have the emissions equipment, sensors such…

Why doesn’t anyone consider *maintenance*?

The 2013 and 2014 models have exactly the same range. The method the EPA required for rating the driving range on the 2013 model was idiotic. In 2013 Nissan offered a configuration setting that let you limit the battery charge to 8o% to reduce degradation. Because of this the EPA rated the range as the “average”…

I believe that running current through an unregulated battery in ambient 100°F/38°C is still bad for it, but that is speculation on my part.

Thermal management wouldn’t be an issue at these power levels. Driving the car at highway speeds pulls an average of 20-25 kW from the battery depending on how fast you’re driving, with peaks exceeding 80+ kW and with lots of hits of 40+ kW regen charging anytime you touch the brakes. The constant back and forth of…

Our LEAF is partially charged almost every morning. With 226 miles of range why do I need it to be fully charged when, as the article rightly points out, the average American drives less than 37 miles per day, and most individual trips are under 6 miles? We only ever charge to 100% if we are planning a very long trip.

I mean, you could just go read a little about how it works before commenting. You’re referencing the 32 amp capability of your cars *on-board charger* which converts 240V AC current into high voltage DC current to charge your cars battery. They are obviously not using your cars onboard charger to power your house.…