ATF is a fantastic rust inhibitor/cleaner in itself. I recommend it instead of barrier fluid because it’s so damn cheap and works so very well.

That is what I did, have an IS300 as my daily, and bought a BMW 2002 a couple years ago, kept it for a year making small improvements, and sold it for roughly what I had in it.

Agreed, but we would need to buy one of these trucks or have a customer come in every XXX miles in order to gather the data to validate it in real world conditions. Engineers-we do the best we can with what management lets us get away with ;)

Torques too, you needed them to move 6000lb luxury car.

My milkshakes bring all the air to get charred

Yes, 2nd gear for getting going in the snow after the stop sign. Even just that little bit of uphill grade can make things a real pain...

I mean, I can’t say I’m surprised OP commenter’s friend does that though either...I mean, as I speak, my mom has 3,000 selfies on her phone because she doesn’t know how to delete them.

....or if it’s done early in the engine’s service life, when there is very little sludge accumulated. You’re right though, the only way to clean the really nasty ones is with a walnut shell blasting. Similar to sandblasting, but with ground walnut shells as the media.

//edit - forgot to add that having a collection of other cars to drive keeps the DD from becoming boring, and keeps miles and wear to a minimum (also minimizing depreciation).

What you’re talking about is called “coking”, and it was a major issue for many Direct Injection engines (mainly VW, Audi, and some others) for many years. The steam-cleaning treatment does work, but the correct fix is to prevent it from happening in the first place. There are a few companies that sell catch cans…

Are you serious?

Wow. Just. Wow.

This is quite possibly the most idiotic and nonsensical automotive rant I’ve ever come across.

Brakes are a heluva lot cheaper to replace than a transmission.

Or Seafoam’s Deep Creep. Damn good stuff.

Excellent stuff - That and a good bolt extractor could take apart the earth’s mantle...

Kerosene and ATF are reputed to be the magic formula but Pb Blaster is the best commonly available penetrating oil. Kroil is harder to find but also excellent. These are not lubricants per se nor are they effective rust inhibitors, there are other products for those applications. BTW don’t inhale any of these…

WD-40 is a dispersant, not a rust/corrosion penetrant and doesn’t work nearly as well in such an application.

I find WD-40 doesn’t penetrate as well as PB. Where PB will be drawn up in to the gaps in the porous rust, WD-40 just doesn’t penetrate, I believe it’s viscosity is just to high.

ATF and acetone. I’ve heard it works really well. Haven’t tried it myself.