Only works if you are only lifting one side at a time. If you jack up both front wheels at once it does NOT work and on the crap half of these guys drive it’s an offs on bet the hand brake hasn’t been used (or useable) for at least a couple years.
Only works if you are only lifting one side at a time. If you jack up both front wheels at once it does NOT work and on the crap half of these guys drive it’s an offs on bet the hand brake hasn’t been used (or useable) for at least a couple years.
I never need to rotate my tires since I change from summer to winter and back each year. They go front to back at each change. They are marked f or r and l or R - with the year they were installed. If they were installed on an odd year they go F to F, and then on odd years they go F to R and never go L to R or R to L.
My suspicion? they took it off and cross-threaded it putting it back on and just cranked it until it popped the poor stud off.
In park on the front drive wheels does nothing with both wheels off the ground.
Doesn’t work with “Directional” tires where you can NOT rotate fight to left or left to right - and more and more tires today ARE directional. To cross rotate would require demounting and reversing the tire on the rim.
When I was service manager failure to use a torque wrench on wheel nuts was pretty close to a firing offence
I change my summer and winter tires on both vehicles by hand in less than an hour on my driveway. Using the electric impact reduces the time by about 2 minutes per wheel. This includes getting out the jack , torque wrench, sockets etc. and moving the tires from behind the garage to the driveway and back.
They’ve all been hooned to hell and back
Even worse is if your trailer is gone WITH the truck - - -
Keeps the property taxes low, donchyaknow
If I had the money and the space to keep them there are quite a few cars I’d pay good money to have. In the Import realm, an early Mini Cooper, An R4, a 2cv,an Imp, a ‘49 Split Window, an HA and HC Vauxhall Viva and an Opel GT would be candidates. Maybe a Holden Monar0, A SSS Datsun 510, a 240Z,A Totota UP7, A KP…
Lots of “too new to legally import” cars are retitles as older cars to import them. I’ve seen a LOT of late model british Minis imported as ‘60s and ‘70s versions .
Having reached the advanced mileage on this car I doubt it will raise it’s head as a “problem”.
Miles don’t scare me at all on a well maintained vehicle. Particularly on Old Volvos and Saabs.
No head gasket issues on the PT engine. Only on the earlier Neon. Even the later Neons had it solved.
Only PT cruisers that have been “rebuilt” have straight panel gaps. Wonky gaps are a pretty good indication they have never been touched.
I had the 5 door version - I bought it used and it served me very well. I used it as a truck and also road-tripped with 4 adults from Ontario to PEI and back. It was a snug fit, but otherwise a comfortable ride. It was virtually trouble free for as long as I owned it - and after I sold it to a neighbour until it got…
I’m glad I live and buy cars in Ontario Canada, where you get the car - with title and plates, all at once. If you already have plates the dealer gets them transferred to the new car by the Service Ontario office where the title change is processed. If you buy from a dealer you get clear title - guaranteed by OMVIC.
Most engine parts fit from 1960 to the end of production in the nineties? Parts from pickup trucks, Valiants, Polaras, Darts -and even Ashbins and Volares.
Washing the old Valiant would require running it through a spin cycle to dry it out - with all the high pressure water that would find it’s way in through the “optional ventilation system”