And their rubber generally outlasts American rubber by more than 2 to 1 from experience as a former Toyota tech and service manager

I’d never recommend ANY GM to anyone I cared for.

Don’t know about the Mazda, but other than a few minor electrical problems my 1995 V6 Mistake (Mystique) was a thouroughly enjoyable little car to drive. When it started getting rusty I retired it in about 2013.

The headlights and tail-lights are NOT an issue. The original headlights were likely yellowed and sun-crazed and replacing them (all - heads and tails) with OEM style aftermarket parts is an easy afternoon job with a few cool ones - and not prohibitively expensive. The grill is LIKELY just an overlay so no real issue…

The clear coat was likely totally roached from the Florida sun - particularly being black. A good single stage repaint, properly done, will be a lot better than the original early-waterbase-tech clearcoat that was on it from the factory

I had a soft tonneau on my Fargo show truck and it wasn’t “cheaped out” - I could have had a hard cover for less -- I just liked the “look” a lot better on the short narrow box. Also it fit behind the seat when I needed an open box (like to haul my tool box or my bike)

That sucka’ will outhandle a ‘vette of the same age - it’s NOT just for straight line performance. Better than a Chevy SSR - more like the 455SS pickup (but handles better) or the Syclone. It will do anything MOST Urban pickup truck buyers today would ask it to do except carry 5 passengers and unlike a “utility…

But in true RoadKill fashion, “Will it do a 2 legged burnout????”

The rear door appears to fit just fine, but the rear “wing” appears to be tweaked.(or at least not properly fitted - the “latches” are showing!!)

Maybe the owner doesn’t know what it’s worth? Hubby died. Said he paid $60G for it 10 years ago. Wife figures she’ll be lucky to get half what hubby paid??? Or she got it in the divorce?

I generally gravity start my 26 year old Ranger. Let it roll back the driveway about 2 feet and pop the clutch. Doesn’t work too well on fresh snow though - - -

I added a crank to my ‘49 VW (in southern Africa in 1973) because a new battery was worth a month’s pay. I hand cranked it for 9 months or so until I was able to scrounge a battery. I also hand cranked my ‘28 Chevy numerous times although it had an electric starter. There is ONE right way to grip a starting crank and…

But the seats weighed a TON!!! (Particularly with leather)

Sounds like my ‘95 3.8

A good 60 year old Dart will cost you more - - -

If that vehicle makes you worry about others on the road you shouldn’t be driving. Just saying. It might not protect the occupants like a new vehicle but it is no more likely, on it’s own merits, to become involved in a collision or to hurt anyone else.

You could hear those on the showroom floor

Taxi service is about the easiest on oil. I know taxis that are only shut off to refuel and service - they run basically 24 hours a day. No condensation, no cold or dry starts, and no sustained high speed driving. Ford 302sand 350 chevy engines in taxi service here in Ontario routinely went 400,000 miles on the engine…

If you want a TurboD to last 25K 2 year oil changes are absolutely STUPID. As stupid as lifetime transmission fluids. 10K 1 Year changes, if not a lot of short runs, sounds good. Same with the tranny fluid/diff fluid changes. 80K is stretching it, but likely adequate. On a somewhat fragile ZF I’d be a lot happier with…

A Tercel 4wd wagon would be my choice in that genre