I traded my paid for 1976 Dodge Ramcharger SE in to the local Chrysler dealer for $3500 cash and a 1975 AMC Pacer in 1978. It was simpler because there was no financing involved. Titles and cash changed hands and I had the down payment for my first house and the goofiest set of wheels -- - -

You didn’t recognize it was a lemon because it wasn’t ripe yet, right??? (still green)

You remember that old “Rich man drives a Cadillac, poor man drives a Ford, but my old man is satisfied with 4 wheels on a board”? The back doors on the ‘47 plymouth didn’t stay closed and with no seatbelts Dad traded it on a ‘49 Dodge coupe. A few mor kids and he traded itfor a ‘50 plymouth that wouldn’t start half…

The leather on my 18 year old Chrysler New Yorker with over 240,000km on it didn’t look that bad - and my 2 teenaged daughters drove it.

P0441 is usually a pretty simple fix - after you find it. Either a cracked rubber hose or a spec of dirt in a vent solenoid - both of which CAN drive you crazy finding them - particularly the solenoid - which will by it’s nature be intermittent. Not expensive to use the “shotgun approach” and just replace both…

One correction for you guys - the SAAB engine has NO relation to the Deek. The only real similarity is it is a 3 cyl 2 stroke. The SAAB was a much more “modern” design. The Deek Junior was either 2.68 inch stroke and 2.78 inch bore. The 1000 was 2.99 stroke and 2.916 bore. The 750 was 2.68 square. The Saab 750 was…

That’s why I bought my Schwinn IZip about 12 years ago. The office I worked in part time was about 8 Km away and there were a few long hills en route - riding my Raleigh Century meant arriving all sweated up so I didn’t ride. With the IZip I rode a lot and pedalled MOST of the way - and Wed noons I rode it another…

I can remember $500 driveable model “a” and “t” fords too - and $15 57 Bel Airs. And $65 split window bugs.

The prices WERE absolutely NUTS, weren’t they?? Anything decent hit the 6 figure mark pretty quick!

A British car WAS old at 6 years. It required more work than a 15 year old Japanese car - even a Mazda. The MX5 is the only Mazda I would consider buying - several friends have /have had them - one raced one extensively - and they are pretty well bulletproof. They all consider 200000km to be “low mileage” and up here…

It appears to be advertised WITH the hardtop - but for the right price he would sell the top separately. If that IS the case he’s on the high side of normal but likely not overpriced in today’s market. What it will be worth this time NEXT year is the big question - I suspect it will NOT be less

What an ugly thing!! And I can just immagine how structurally screwed up it is too - - - 

I have no problem with a car appreciating - or with getting a killer deal on a car and selling it for more than you / I paid for it after enjoying it for a season or more. grabbing one not intending to drive it - then hawking it for a huge profit stinks. I have not been lucky enough to sell a well used car for more…

Definitely not high mileage for a ‘Yota - which begs the question why did it need a new top end???? Only thing I can think of would be some kind of abuse or neglect. Add those horrific wheels and the hinky interior and I’d have to say ND.

200000 on an AWD and you ARE asking to spend a lot of money. Not many places I’d take a camper like that that would require AWD.

I’d want to see the service records and repair records

Low floor wheel chair caravans around here are a LOT cheaper than campers. Usually beat to heck and back by folks who either can’t affort to or won’t properly maintain them - and the miles are all short trip urban miles - every mile equivalent to at least 50 miles on the camper. Either that or they were taxis

Show me an RV that is NOT a money-pit

If it only went up 20% you either overpaid or got a lemon - —

Likely in cockeyed to get the steering column past the exhaust manifold without modification to either or both. That 4.3 is SIFNIFICANTLY wider than the Dauntless with the manifolds installed. A 4.3 Vortec needs to be offset about 2 inches just to get the manifolds inside the frame rails and the steering shaft past…