I would deliver it, as it is technically “XYZ or current resident”. If there is a name on the inside of the box, I would only leave things that were addressed to the person listed on the box.

If the person wrote “not here” I would dump it in the trash.

Anything you receive in the mail that has “Presorted Standard” in the stamp area is junk. Discard it immediately.

Handling mode. Amateur.

OBD will not output torque figures. The software most likely has an algorithm that takes into account weight and the phone’s accelerometer to calculate torque.

I rode in the hatch of a C4 Corvette a handful of times when I was 5 or 6 years old. What’s the big deal?

I know. Left hand-chest-right elbow. No entry/exit burns. Muscle soreness. I was very lucky.

While learning to weld aluminum I was hit across the chest with 240V/140A. My chest hurt for 2 days after that.

10,000 amps will lead to you being cooked.

My 54.4mph descent Tuesday was from the top of Topanga down into the valley. I hit 58.8 in June descending from the top of Topanga to Old Topanga. I haven’t hit my vMax on the descent to PCH, so I don’t know what my max through there is.

Because of a few different issues, I am one of those “freds” that you refer to. Getting faster every day now that my 18 month old wheezing issue and 2 year old ill-fit-caused-knee issue are fixed. Every time I ride a climb/descent route I’m working on skills on both parts of that. If you aren’t doing that, then why be…

I’m in SoCal. Ride regularly in the Santa Monica Mountains. Now that I have effective allergy meds and can breathe again, I will be up Angeles Crest/Angelest Forest/etc. riding.

We have some good descents as well. Pass and pull away. When you can’t keep up with traffic, move right and deal with shit pavement.

The only reason why I’m still on 23s is that I had *maybe* 50 miles on a fresh set of Michelin Pro4s in 23mm when I destroyed my rear wheel (that and I am not a person that goes out and buys new gear every year (because I cannot afford it). I tend to ride until something is failing before replacing). My new set of…

Depends on the state. In California, a cyclist can take up to and including the full lane of traffic if they deem it necessary for their safety.

If you’re oscillating above and below them, absolutely stay to the side. We’re not talking about that here. He outpaced the motorcyclists and passed them on a descent. He has the right to take the lane.

If you’re new to cycling, that’s your thought process. Once you’ve ridden for a decade, you understand that taking a “b or c line” means that you’ll catch gravel and slide in front of a car who may not stop in time.

That’s the problem: a non-cyclist attempting to tell a cyclist what to do, when they have no frame of reference.

Gravel and dirt accumulate at the edges.

Edges are where pavement deteriorates the fastest.

You have to do that on the flats, but if you’re outpacing motorized vehicles on descents it’s safest to pull away and take the pavement you want so you don’t hit some shit at the edge and go down at speed.

I used to commute Westwood to Burbank through Hollywood. 16 gram C02 cylinder to the window always gets the car’s attention.

They get pissed when you shower them with glass.

I’ve achieved 58.8mph (gps verified) descending on my bicycle. Pros during last year’s TDF breached 70mph.

Leave cyclists alone during descents. I am constantly hunting for clean pavement and moving faster than almost any car that’s on the same road.

Looks like it does not work on any Nikkor lenses/Nikon gear nor any Celestron telescopes.

Looks like it does not work on any Nikkor lenses/Nikon gear nor any Celestron telescopes.

I have a spreadsheet on my ‘01 BMW. If you want to see it, let me know your gmail information and I will give you read permission.