That was the first CD player ever put into any car from the factory. At the time, that was a crazy thing. And people pay crazy amounts of money for stereos in cars now, some of which are absolutely $20,000. There is a $10,000 stereo option for a Range Rover. You can get a $160,000 clock in the dashboard of a Bentley…
Haha yeah, kinda. But not as much as every time I go in the garage and see it sitting there.
Nope. $9,000 in 1987 dollars.
My Countach has the original Alpine CD player, installed in 1987. It was the first ever CD player that came with a car. It was a $9,000 option when the car was new.
I took at least 3 photos of that Intrigue, and the minty Bonneville right next to it.
“Sequential Shifting” is an awful generous way to describe a 3-speed, transverse automatic that dates to the mid-70's Oldsmobile Toronado.
Every day I’m hustling. Every. Single. Day.
My review of this car as well as Leh Keen setting the third-fastest street car lap ever at Chuckwalla in Project Swan for our /TUNED Tuner Shootout right here :
Second this advice: if you plan to rent or borrow a car in a foreign country, especially one where English is not the primary language, get one. All foreign rental agencies I’ve used have required it too.
Met Steven when he was like 10 years old, he bet me 5 bucks on some race at the sidelines of shift sector, and won haha. (or maybe I bet him and lost?) Super nice kid. Spent some time with him runway racing his dad’s cars too last year, he did well. Privileged for sure, jealous I am, but he couldn’t be a nicer kid.…
if that’s true, you’re missing out on my weekly column at The Drive!
haha happens to the best of us. Blue is before and red is after for both power and torque.
I don’t think that’s an accurate interpretation of the dyno chart. Peak torque is 3600, peak power is at around 5300, and it drops by about 50 hp between 5300 and 6500 RPM redline. Shifting at peak torque isn’t the correct way to go fast. Your ideal powerband is between peak torque and peak horsepower. So in the case…
the way I understood the explanation is that when you go full throttle regardless of mode, the rears are overdriven, and by how much varies by conditions. therefore it produces inconsistent dyno results, so they run 2wd for consistency.
I heard that too, but from what I learned at Mountune, the RDU shutdowns that people are reporting aren’t dictated by temperature; they are dictated by a set of parameters. So if you launch control X times, or if you go into big drifts for x seconds or minutes, or if the computer detects you abusing the car, it…
Thanks! I agree, that would be a good comparison between dyno’s. Yours seemed to read a lot lower than the mustang, but everyone always gives me the “conservative dyno” line so you never know.
It’s a long story. But for now, the magnaflow actually sounds good wth sport mode.
No, the short version was that the AWD tries to overdrive the rear wheels (which is normal) , and it confuses the ECU and the ECU pulls timing. But if you run it in 2WD mode, it doesn’t do that. It’s an issue specific to the RS, so I’ve learned, and so Mountune does all their dyno’ing of the car in 2WD mode.
Thanks for sharing - Some notes on my dyno experience not mentioned in the article: