nucleardog
NuclearDog
nucleardog

So far so good. I mean, it’s a WRX so it’s hard to tell for sure where the oil’s going, but there’s definitely been no spots on my driveway or any of my usual parking spots.

Buy a Fumoto valve and it’s even easier. No crush washer, tools, or cleanup necessary.

Okay, ask for the part first.

Not to mention you’re generally going to get a better interest rate on a new car loan than a used car loan - so even if you save a couple thousand dollars buying used, you’ll probably pay it all back in interest.

Our notoriously shitty local Subaru dealership offered me 10.99% (and not even for the vehicle that I wanted). Credit card rates on a new car loan.

You okay dealing with the fallout when he runs through a red light camera, drives it through a school bus full of kids, abandons it at the side of the road, and the city and the tow yard come after you for all the fees, and the police come after you about the poor, injured children? If not, you better have some

My better two-thirds has a Jeep Renegade (that pre-dates our getting together) with the 2.4L Tigershark.

They don’t, but I do. Getting blasted with -60 temperatures while I scrape windows and brush snow and stuff sure makes having a car to get into that’s above -40 nice.

Dude, no need to give up. It sounds like everyone that’s ever taught you just isn’t great at teaching, which isn’t surprising since everyone that ever tried to teach me was awful at it. Once you’ve been driving stick for a while, unless you make a conscious effort to decompose the motions, it’s just automatic and it’s

I’m actually just running the OTS Cobb Stage 1 right now. My main priority was fixing the accelerator pedal response. Which, annoyingly, actually changes as you drive the car - run the battery flat and it will start acting as if 100% pedal = 100% throttle and you’ll nearly stall the car out for the next couple days

It was -40 here last week... -60F with the windchill.

Unless you’re getting into some serious track driving, you’ll do fine with the WRX - I don’t think you’re missing much from the STI for primarily spirited street driving and/or the occasional track day. (And if you’re not building a dedicated track car, you’ll probably enjoy any extras you could afford taking a higher

Looking at the average temperatures in NYC, he doesn’t need anything more than all seasons. They should be good down to 15, and the January (coldest) average is 26. And they don’t suddenly fall off a cliff at 15, they’re still driveable past there, and limpable *well* past there.

Whether it’s a problem or not depends on who you are. It doesn’t directly compare to the used car situation because you’re only selling one car - there’s no benefit to selling higher volumes.

On a $1500/mo payment, assuming you hit the maximum debt to income ratio the lenders will generally allow you to have, you’re looking at needing to clear ~$3350/mo.

Yeah, and after I haul that dirt, I need to move it places. I should probably buy a bobcat too, right?

This is how I found out I can program a pin code into my car, and then tap it like morse code into the truck latch to unlock all the doors if I don’t have my key.

Now playing

No. Best information we have seems to be that it isn’t high compression alone causing detonation, but leftover bits of hot oil, or bits of burning hot carbon or oil coming in with the intake air which provide an ignition source and cause the mixture to ignite too early.

‘16 WRX Limited. (FA20, not the STI’s EJ20)

I think maybe your information is a little out of date. Seems that most modern vehicles with any allusions to performance are being put on wide tires (much to the chagrin of everyone who just wanted something that *looked* sporty when it comes time to buy new rubber).